tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37789361229292900862024-03-14T11:25:32.032+01:00The Mere AlchemistIn search of aestethical bliss.fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.comBlogger25125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-49480278260618716262014-06-20T14:38:00.001+02:002014-06-20T14:38:15.516+02:00Gangs of NK - Ilke Cop Collection 2014 - How a Movie by Park Chan Wook Inspired an Urban Womens Collection<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">They say time flies when you're having fun (or working your tail off)! I can only concurr. After four years of hard work and interesting ups and downs, I graduated in fashion design at the academy of Sint Niklaas. I'm proud to say that I did so with flying colors and top of my class! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It seems only yesterday I was just a girl with a dream.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You can read reviews of this years Fashion Show on: ° <a href="http://www.ffi.be/nl/event/sask-sint-niklaas-eindejaarscollecties-2014" target="_blank">Flanders Fashion Institute</a> website</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> ° <a href="http://belmodo.tv/mode/fashion-news/2014/06/09/sask-academieshow-14-het-verslag/" target="_blank">Belmodo</a> blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><u>Presenting <i>Gangs of NK - </i>A/W Collection 2014-15</u></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My collection <i>Gangs of NK</i> is an attempt to show the contradiction between the masses and the individual.
NK stands for North Korea and her mass culture and idoctrination. For me, gangs are a symbol for the rebellion of the individual that still doesn't leave the security of the group. The result is a womens collection that combines unexpected forms, prints and colors and yet shows a distinct unity.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The starting point for this collection was the Korean Movie <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0451094/" target="_blank">'Sympathy for Lady Vengeance'</a> by director Park Chan Wook. I drew inspiration from different aspects of the movie which I transformed into a collection concept.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The movie is about a horrific child murder and contains a lot of nonsensical elements. I started research on Asian toys, because they have that childlike quality and can be very weird and disturbing. These toys determined a lot of the imagery and colors of the collection. I combined the very bright almost psychedelic colors of the toys with the soft pastel tones prominent in the movie.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The embroidery in the collection refers to these bizarre toys and the pixelated crosses that make out the embroidered designs connect these to mass media like computer and television, which is also very often used as a medium of mass communication in North Korea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The diverse handling of the fabric, like the quilting techniques used on certain fabrics and the use of cut-out shapes can all be traced back to elements in nature, like ice, snow and clouds. Natural formations are very prominent in Parks movie. These irregular lines are present throughout the whole of the collection. These lines also represent the borders, rivers and roads of a country. For example, I created a print out of an aerial view of North Korea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Research of North Korea and its culture have partly determined the overall form and cuts of the clothing. The traditional Hanbok proved to be a great inspiration. The dress shows a lowered sleeve and remarkable volumes. The shoulders follow the form of the body and I tried to achieve the same shape in the collection.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For the style and layering of the collection I looked at the typical Asian streetstyle and hip-hop culture. Pieces are combined in an unexpected way and worn on top of eachother. Futuristic prints and plaid vintage fabrics are positioned next to one another to establish an urban yet womenly feel.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This year I worked with a fantastic team to put together a studio shoot as well as a street shoot. You'll find the studio images inclosed. Don't hesitate to let me know what you think, personally I'm super excited about the result! Hope you enjoy!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Design/Concept/Styling: Ilke Cop</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Photography: <a href="http://aaronlapeirre.com/" target="_blank">Aaron Lapeirre</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">MUAH: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/caindy.therese" target="_blank">Crystal D.</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Assitant MUAH: Lisa Defoor</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Model: <a href="http://www.modelsoffice.be/?view=detail&id=577&gen=women&prev=1" target="_blank">Mo Li</a> (Models Office)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Production Assistant: Pieter-Jan Donders</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Special thanks to: Uschi Cop, Danielle Gabriels, Louis Strijbos, Marc Cop, Cristina Chuecos, Marijke Boye, Cleo Jespers, Maryam Kamal Hedayat, Ine de Haes, Annelies Demeulenaere, Nina Van Cauwenberge, Gitte Van den Bergh, Anaïs Raes, Nadia Hostie, Danny Defoor, Elien Defoor, Ines Gabriels, Monica de Ridder, Paul Gabriels, Erik Nagels, Sylvia, Annick Schokaert van <a href="https://www.facebook.com/TheStitchingRoom?fref=ts" target="_blank">The Stitching Room</a></span><br />
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fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-31346843550532460082014-06-20T12:45:00.002+02:002014-06-20T13:05:32.791+02:00Iberian Gold - Ilke Cop Collection 2013: The Story<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Photography: Aaron Lapeirre</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">MUA: Sophia Alix</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Production: Maryam Kamal Hedayat</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Model: Tosca Schuermans</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Special Thanks: Pieter-Jan Donders, Uschi Cop, Danielle Gabriels, Louis Strijbos, Fort 8</span></div>
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</span></span>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-51032440753567671812013-07-04T12:23:00.000+02:002013-07-04T12:23:23.306+02:00Iberian Gold: Collection 2012-2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After a year of hard work, I can finally reveal with pride my third year collection that I created at the Academy of Sint Niklaas.</div>
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<b>Iberian Gold</b> is a collection inspired by the Portuguese <i>Palacio da Pena </i>in the town of Syntra. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-vzY4RFbND4WSdAL8O0xbDN81CoiMm-aDdQ8mcXPbeSab3d_140vXisUxYS_kGu1BHyYIDgfqLm7oN5SL15hkJIXjVMdRxUuqEYmF0lRaZVb7aq9Yjj-svWD3Whn65eAkAcOiVH3QVU7T/s500/18-45-palaisdapenagrandeimage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-vzY4RFbND4WSdAL8O0xbDN81CoiMm-aDdQ8mcXPbeSab3d_140vXisUxYS_kGu1BHyYIDgfqLm7oN5SL15hkJIXjVMdRxUuqEYmF0lRaZVb7aq9Yjj-svWD3Whn65eAkAcOiVH3QVU7T/s320/18-45-palaisdapenagrandeimage.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palacio da Pena, Syntra</td></tr>
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The excessive decorative style of the palace can be seen in the rich fabrics and treatment of the garments. References to the military function of the palace are visible through the adding of the stripes on the sleeves and legs.</div>
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Research of the ethnical clothing of the Iberian Peninsula revealed a preference for golden materials and the covering of the head. Golden accents and accessories are worked through the collection.</div>
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Two prints were developed which were based and inspired on the <i>Azulejos: </i>gorgeous, colorful tiles used in Iberian architecture.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDSObqjFUV7_wZoHOMm88cKBjnZp21z2ITJXIDjeKrkfekSw_tOLKOR0BalpK-5QLYtKsVcokaRZEJ4IE5wbN6S_vCi4OThesw1VwNz211Kb5oLhAIrnSTrU2ZIU_Kz5dEPAApgEAmhXOx/s800/3733050635_65ff183975_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDSObqjFUV7_wZoHOMm88cKBjnZp21z2ITJXIDjeKrkfekSw_tOLKOR0BalpK-5QLYtKsVcokaRZEJ4IE5wbN6S_vCi4OThesw1VwNz211Kb5oLhAIrnSTrU2ZIU_Kz5dEPAApgEAmhXOx/s200/3733050635_65ff183975_o.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portuguese Azulejos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9opIcKbikDA55tGTnj_C2V2_Jg_lnECuPrrBCAAkTHPigCdtTcCwGG8XZ2Wg3LVRfCNFiieDWRHTj_98CrSD3pTgNsNDc7FhKq8GGgVyAtZ3nPiNM5v0tymNDWMTwsRIiGup7SLtlk73I/s1600/print3+groen+met+schaar+rood.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9opIcKbikDA55tGTnj_C2V2_Jg_lnECuPrrBCAAkTHPigCdtTcCwGG8XZ2Wg3LVRfCNFiieDWRHTj_98CrSD3pTgNsNDc7FhKq8GGgVyAtZ3nPiNM5v0tymNDWMTwsRIiGup7SLtlk73I/s200/print3+groen+met+schaar+rood.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Print 'Cut the chains'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQXef1Yf7YUcLWTyo-HzU29V_kf1YYOIaQ7uDqf6bEj0xR4iUk3aLE83gwq5odq6g-CZi9UG_KKl-8Y3MMrhhKY-HF8QfXqCgo8bXV3OvrLo-ulTZT2wHdaz_BqxgwRkIWIt_mOhAWO3S/s1600/print2meercontrast.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQXef1Yf7YUcLWTyo-HzU29V_kf1YYOIaQ7uDqf6bEj0xR4iUk3aLE83gwq5odq6g-CZi9UG_KKl-8Y3MMrhhKY-HF8QfXqCgo8bXV3OvrLo-ulTZT2wHdaz_BqxgwRkIWIt_mOhAWO3S/s200/print2meercontrast.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Print 'Blue abiss'</td></tr>
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You can watch a clip from the 2013 show of the Academy under 'Moving Images' where the collection and the ethnical costume do their thing on the catwalk.</div>
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I also had the pleasure to work with an astoundingly talented crew for the Iberian Gold shoot. The following photographs are part of the first series. The second series will follow shortly.</div>
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Enjoy! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvvFn4R3LbZy_8HZ4xuBrS9YVAeF0rFCL47-7eugocLpzzFYXT_rylfgbK-v9PHec1i_oMIRJr0p9L-ErBUj4qPMrRqzTdg1bkIjCr1sEGL2pGeHl_fq_aXr-hSt7mOMiEkuUXtRguEzm/s1600/Ilke+Shot+10_0012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvvFn4R3LbZy_8HZ4xuBrS9YVAeF0rFCL47-7eugocLpzzFYXT_rylfgbK-v9PHec1i_oMIRJr0p9L-ErBUj4qPMrRqzTdg1bkIjCr1sEGL2pGeHl_fq_aXr-hSt7mOMiEkuUXtRguEzm/s640/Ilke+Shot+10_0012.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQbGPnByhyphenhyphenRYWEN7LD87Z5nhjfMqBwJ5OQp9BQgn-ulywlzE7DGce1y3cdn7WrXvzFPwyqEMSmoHeTr09YDRQki2bdp_zXeKZnkPQWZh8sPB0QdAFd0fcO2_0GQhzlfcvQ_8KhWjBN6VMw/s1600/Ilke+Shot+10_0052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQbGPnByhyphenhyphenRYWEN7LD87Z5nhjfMqBwJ5OQp9BQgn-ulywlzE7DGce1y3cdn7WrXvzFPwyqEMSmoHeTr09YDRQki2bdp_zXeKZnkPQWZh8sPB0QdAFd0fcO2_0GQhzlfcvQ_8KhWjBN6VMw/s640/Ilke+Shot+10_0052.jpg" width="427" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC2475zZmQB3sCEudmDm7CopZdthBtOaJ8jtjiY9LiU-FOdqmV8KO-yMuwymAXVeRZub4ikmc-F3VKxQEu3YBWHbHFQ3Vxs2TFvnrhNZc_v549IdFLnXGtW5zijXCfrNb4IuI2JSCgwuvd/s1600/Ilke+Shot+10_0094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC2475zZmQB3sCEudmDm7CopZdthBtOaJ8jtjiY9LiU-FOdqmV8KO-yMuwymAXVeRZub4ikmc-F3VKxQEu3YBWHbHFQ3Vxs2TFvnrhNZc_v549IdFLnXGtW5zijXCfrNb4IuI2JSCgwuvd/s640/Ilke+Shot+10_0094.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrE2CfwCxKJjY60fJVrii7yJyLPjizptee9GUTl0nnzcLmtWWWWLF4S_1u-gXYXroU2Tpx_IfX_x8XXxPPRKhhG6qIm0IQbeo_Y22OsyfzSOMPryY3e1LsUDPuPAmSMdzTS6xUpuUPydTu/s1600/Ilke+Shot+10_0066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrE2CfwCxKJjY60fJVrii7yJyLPjizptee9GUTl0nnzcLmtWWWWLF4S_1u-gXYXroU2Tpx_IfX_x8XXxPPRKhhG6qIm0IQbeo_Y22OsyfzSOMPryY3e1LsUDPuPAmSMdzTS6xUpuUPydTu/s640/Ilke+Shot+10_0066.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmJRS7l-2P2TEt4In8CbqVm_AMwUYAEg-DcW9rsptXWtUpAYiZMCIDS9bqL9slvxQH66egg_uWLCxiF9njl6eaSjvl2kDquNe7nDAQH0V2BKd2CpKhSGTQPuBsid9lD5TpTAC7pyCnUg8b/s1600/Ilke+Shot+10_0034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmJRS7l-2P2TEt4In8CbqVm_AMwUYAEg-DcW9rsptXWtUpAYiZMCIDS9bqL9slvxQH66egg_uWLCxiF9njl6eaSjvl2kDquNe7nDAQH0V2BKd2CpKhSGTQPuBsid9lD5TpTAC7pyCnUg8b/s640/Ilke+Shot+10_0034.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Photography: <a href="http://aaronlapeirre.com/" target="_blank">Aaron Lapeirre</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">MUA: <a href="http://sophia.madhatter.be/site/" target="_blank">Sophia Alix</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Production: Maryam Kamal Hedayat</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Model: <a href="http://www.immbruxelles.com/details.aspx?modelID=592258&ltr=&nav=4&subid=9050&photoID=9050&mainsubid=9050&sexid=&ha=&st=&mu=&sm=&sf=&nm=&nf=&fn=&li=&sb=&mnf=&srch=&a=148" target="_blank">Tosca Schuermans</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Special Thanks: Pieter-Jan Donders, Uschi Cop, Danielle Gabriels, Louis Strijbos</span></div>
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<br />fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-844002701665546182013-04-19T10:38:00.001+02:002013-04-19T10:38:35.804+02:00The Exotic Side of Belgium<br />
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Well into the third week
of April, Belgian sun finally decided to show her unreliable rays.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It got me thinking about
other more exotic countries, where the sun is a given and they don't even have
a word for 'rain coat' or 'umbrella'. (Come to think of it, in my rebellion
against Belgian rain, I never use either)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">'Exotic' is used to
describe everything foreign, things that are not from 'here'. At the same time
it is used to embellish hidden insults, 'that's an exotic hairdo', meaning you
just hate it. A negative meaning to distance yourself from what you're seeing
(and you’re obviously not understanding).<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Throughout history
people have looked at 'the other' in this way, completely putting these unknown
religions, races, life choices, rituals and habits apart from their own.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Taking fashion into the
equation, the concept of 'ethnic dress' is an entirely western construction.
Everything that strays from the traditional western mode of dress is by direct
result denominated 'ethnic'.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This perception is very
prominent in this Spanish take on an African Tribe costume. These
costumes are used in the Parada Moros y Cristianos all over Spain.</span><span style="font-family: Times New Roman, serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEZQyouDbFY1HnGb2yFhyChoLkmE1iy3kqkncMtLNradjqRwQQiltFw32gvQk_svXmxEO19XPQ9qmP9Py5d9pkp5CnvhAav3JbUQ8rqskLcQqUaaDVBbg2o6KwtIHQ4cOtkQ7M5Qayx3Lz/s1600/DSC07032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEZQyouDbFY1HnGb2yFhyChoLkmE1iy3kqkncMtLNradjqRwQQiltFw32gvQk_svXmxEO19XPQ9qmP9Py5d9pkp5CnvhAav3JbUQ8rqskLcQqUaaDVBbg2o6KwtIHQ4cOtkQ7M5Qayx3Lz/s640/DSC07032.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.727272033691406px; text-align: center;"><b>Parada Moros y Cristianos</b>, El Verger, 2009<br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; text-align: start;">I think it is very interesting how the African costume is interpreted by the Europeans. Animal skin, feathers, a spear, impressive face painting, all the clichés are present.</span><br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">It was an assignment at the academy that got me to further research this costume. The exercise consisted in choosing and replicating an ethnic costume of choice.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; text-align: start;">After an extensive search for beads, feathers, leather etc. and engaging some friends and family to help me put together the spear and helmet. The final result was impressive!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifvRje4444H8tlS7Yyj4DrvDS3Z9j8kopQ-oiww8gIzDr-xo9GW4QfVPH4UWLRNUBV1_MuEnQg4f-OBEgdGeye80k0tMbsdu1yjme273XrojJ9pFjOWZr2wM3Fzz6pls7lB7pqCYUOYAYG/s1600/254395_10152195795570234_1319418160_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifvRje4444H8tlS7Yyj4DrvDS3Z9j8kopQ-oiww8gIzDr-xo9GW4QfVPH4UWLRNUBV1_MuEnQg4f-OBEgdGeye80k0tMbsdu1yjme273XrojJ9pFjOWZr2wM3Fzz6pls7lB7pqCYUOYAYG/s1600/254395_10152195795570234_1319418160_n.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfCxI7M9rpHHLHMLLaxxFYBmR0J4W93CT9pK2dGnL8EjfIgTeA-3PMP2FpH3zOArAwgOb2XN-U2qj9qKNb3ljRfgIQeacdA7CmcHQUyxQp4SJJ6Umn-n0pa_QgN-JqcIIuCOrBZYnwLWez/s1600/623_10152195347525234_719471293_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfCxI7M9rpHHLHMLLaxxFYBmR0J4W93CT9pK2dGnL8EjfIgTeA-3PMP2FpH3zOArAwgOb2XN-U2qj9qKNb3ljRfgIQeacdA7CmcHQUyxQp4SJJ6Umn-n0pa_QgN-JqcIIuCOrBZYnwLWez/s1600/623_10152195347525234_719471293_n.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">In our western minds everything that strays from our modes of dress is considered ethnic.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This can be seen as strange as it is the western clothing that is exceptional in several ways.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">For example, in 'ethnic clothing', patterns are often constructed from geometrical shapes like squares, circles and triangles. These patterns, sometimes made as one piece on a loom, often don't have to be cut or sewn but are draped around the body. </span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJmAO-SwIa_NWqzsLFK-14yI7bxIaPnJvosBN-5T5-CYPEBCFBHaXEm9LDNAFYzJz6SC4I_E8_QQtzj2V_up90RpA6xnQrKZdUH_zFZlQ9_BUJVhRALA5YIu8rVgwdU5my7KPt-nPD_y9/s1600/Studio+Portrait+of+a+Nair+Woman.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJmAO-SwIa_NWqzsLFK-14yI7bxIaPnJvosBN-5T5-CYPEBCFBHaXEm9LDNAFYzJz6SC4I_E8_QQtzj2V_up90RpA6xnQrKZdUH_zFZlQ9_BUJVhRALA5YIu8rVgwdU5my7KPt-nPD_y9/s400/Studio+Portrait+of+a+Nair+Woman.JPG" width="231" /></span></a></td></tr>
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<b>Portrait of a Nair woman</b> </div>
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This Sari, a traditional Indian dress, is worn </div>
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draped around the body. </div>
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It has a rectangular pattern.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Modern western dress, from the Middle Ages till now, has been predominantly sewn and tight round the body rather than draped.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Earlier, highly developed civilizations considered unsewn drapes to be the height of sophistication. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The ancient Romans for example were proud of their luxurious togas and citizens were even forbidden to wear fitted clothing. Sewn clothing was considered barbaric.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAi7zfOM0MgFYh57d4A1XuhLnsX63KzFwq-7GhKKylY7AK7h0oEIZHbucHdUziz0qRzzyyEHSIPwMGfizd5FEF6M-1LT0VdLDJNUkh1v0qwtg3QL5ypByLsxcetC6Tt5ti5inugk1KvQ87/s1600/20-benevolent-look-marble-statue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAi7zfOM0MgFYh57d4A1XuhLnsX63KzFwq-7GhKKylY7AK7h0oEIZHbucHdUziz0qRzzyyEHSIPwMGfizd5FEF6M-1LT0VdLDJNUkh1v0qwtg3QL5ypByLsxcetC6Tt5ti5inugk1KvQ87/s400/20-benevolent-look-marble-statue.jpg" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.727272033691406px;"><b>Marble Statue of August</b>, Roman Emperor</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The reasons for this preference for uncut cloth are various. Fabric was very expensive and the ample consumption thereof was used to express wealth. It was also believed that fabric had not only a structural but a spiritual integrity. Clothing serves as a protection against external circumstances, like cold weather, but it is also believed it protects the wearer against all kinds of evils. That's way the cloth had to stay intact. If this isn't possible, the textile is cut in big geometrical shapes that are believed to be powerful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">That is also why embellishments on ethnic clothing are often found on important and vital parts of the body, like the heart, the head and the wrists. They serve as a talisman to fend off bad spirits and curses.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNX44pJXhaye8F0ygdYwwGJM50u_iGQ0oizRPP0UxLCDj-AagX8d8rmJRRQ8bdXlklc3jMF-tmYzJpRfu7875VtdXS1ZcoMORbOAB_LjCC94Y3IXTVU3F5bJYT3H3DQ4l6v4-aPkKxBrOy/s1600/AK-Hardangerbrud-norwegische-Frau-in-Tracht.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNX44pJXhaye8F0ygdYwwGJM50u_iGQ0oizRPP0UxLCDj-AagX8d8rmJRRQ8bdXlklc3jMF-tmYzJpRfu7875VtdXS1ZcoMORbOAB_LjCC94Y3IXTVU3F5bJYT3H3DQ4l6v4-aPkKxBrOy/s400/AK-Hardangerbrud-norwegische-Frau-in-Tracht.jpg" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
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The beads and embroideries on the dress and</div>
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headdress of this <b>Nordic bride</b> are most dominant </div>
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on the chest and head area.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Our western conception that draped dress or clothing made of simple geometrical pieces of fabric is less refined, because easier to make, is a misguided opinion. Most of the time so called 'ethnic' costumes are much closer and in keeping with our human needs and nature.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So we can ask ourselves: isn't our fleeting modern fashion, which changes with the seasons and whims of designers, the exotic oddball?</span></div>
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fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-68402704231835632972013-04-10T15:10:00.001+02:002013-04-10T17:36:51.152+02:00The Birth of Mere Alchemy<br />
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Halleluja, praise the fashion gods!</div>
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<a href="http://facebook.com/merealchemy" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Mere Alchemy</span> </a>has seen the light of day.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH46NOHD7lItirDX6iIGTwZrq24uSNSBApNN_zDkq4sRB0a6IbmXyk5vsIdzjnAXh8bVpT1LVb2OMGVy3d5JAfNxDvuheWBwm7S4wCWCL3EgB-4jC__CT5imIImOWewXT0KXubvlRdiuQ8/s1600/524728_145742732270533_1414433944_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH46NOHD7lItirDX6iIGTwZrq24uSNSBApNN_zDkq4sRB0a6IbmXyk5vsIdzjnAXh8bVpT1LVb2OMGVy3d5JAfNxDvuheWBwm7S4wCWCL3EgB-4jC__CT5imIImOWewXT0KXubvlRdiuQ8/s320/524728_145742732270533_1414433944_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBjfUAM5O1ydszRSUGmGv6MfFkIQSgQFO8pAn03sMv46Ni8VPEfz4EXWrjqJ1shNZBLN9wKVc1nCO3ziH6SjLZfwG4mIzL4DERFfGYMjHr71pw5LIhmFC79q143T3PXlLuz-sbtQHrwyVR/s1600/IMG_0654_3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBjfUAM5O1ydszRSUGmGv6MfFkIQSgQFO8pAn03sMv46Ni8VPEfz4EXWrjqJ1shNZBLN9wKVc1nCO3ziH6SjLZfwG4mIzL4DERFfGYMjHr71pw5LIhmFC79q143T3PXlLuz-sbtQHrwyVR/s320/IMG_0654_3.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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As some of you may know, I spend a lot of time designing and sewing clothes.</div>
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Fate provided me with a super talented twin sister who likes to take up the old knitting needles and work her magic!</div>
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And so the inevitable happened.</div>
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Two minds came together and <a href="http://www.facebook.com/MereAlchemy" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Mere Alchemy</span></a> was born. </div>
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With this new brand, we create unique one-of-a-kind pieces which incorporate knitted details and innovative designs. Our garments are exclusively custom made by 2 pairs of hands.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq8OJKbUJfTNWTc8Fnkx7On75zgAMcU5repK70eEM6UeAiL_wzyo86W5WsPj9bvNa4lQ_BMQK6yjG1InvW-IDM_3K2Lys7uR0o_pv5-XNSyKmOpfsoa05oLgYUbxrjx8vpIQIvQbcullS1/s1600/555995_145863978925075_365953259_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq8OJKbUJfTNWTc8Fnkx7On75zgAMcU5repK70eEM6UeAiL_wzyo86W5WsPj9bvNa4lQ_BMQK6yjG1InvW-IDM_3K2Lys7uR0o_pv5-XNSyKmOpfsoa05oLgYUbxrjx8vpIQIvQbcullS1/s400/555995_145863978925075_365953259_n.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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The following months we will exhibit some of our designs at pop-up bar<span style="color: blue;"> <a href="http://www.facebook.com/HuiskamerErnest" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Huiskamer Ernest</span></a></span> in Ghent until the 15th of July.</div>
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For a taste of our vision, feel free to drop by!</div>
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Like our <a href="http://www.facebook.com/MereAlchemy" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Facebook page</span></a> and stay informed on all our latest designs, events and expositions.</div>
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Contact us: Mere.Alchemy@gmail.com</div>
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Enjoy!</div>
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The Mere Alchemist</div>
fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-49276353760125889012012-04-18T17:13:00.000+02:002012-04-19T11:10:48.082+02:00Cindy Sherman's Ugly Fashion<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">I have always been drawn to female artists, not in the least because, frankly, there aren't enough. The male artist, as well as the male gaze, has long dominated art and fashion, with the great exception of Coco Chanel. The woman was long destined to take on the role of 'muse' or 'model'.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">Cindy</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">Sherman defies this fact and</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">is undoubtedly one of</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">the most famous</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">photographers of the</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">last century. In her work she comments on the position of the woman in the art world. </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">Her</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> '</span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">Untitled</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">Film Stills'</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">series</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">, which she </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">produced</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">between 1977</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">and 1980</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">, </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">evokes the </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">atmosphere of the black</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">and white film without explicitly copying a particular movie. She takes on the persona of female figures, who are not seldom engaging in domestic activities.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgKKKD2CCT6N_4pS2tDy3hgzwGi490F7y5Vriu5KcjUkJUqa1ZRRHHzGaL-JjBrcJdPUVwlDF0ZnK5jXK70MlL-NLgcdNKknTja7DsTzWena7v6eyXfrQiE47LcSXQRpdEbVfSH__p66N/s1600/cindy-sherman-cinderella.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgKKKD2CCT6N_4pS2tDy3hgzwGi490F7y5Vriu5KcjUkJUqa1ZRRHHzGaL-JjBrcJdPUVwlDF0ZnK5jXK70MlL-NLgcdNKknTja7DsTzWena7v6eyXfrQiE47LcSXQRpdEbVfSH__p66N/s400/cindy-sherman-cinderella.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cindy Sherman, Untitled Film Still #21 , 1978</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkVeXCxSo7QcQSZR21Py9BvZW6Nb4aDRuLoHkpoIwDvJ8U9jP1VdmEjG5lZByOEC5OwkNoGN0r6_eWUYB15BUHc162MkVYFx3h1528TG32oqwE1LhCKV9lo9qr5nytZVBwLkp3xZ5ItF4o/s1600/sherman03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkVeXCxSo7QcQSZR21Py9BvZW6Nb4aDRuLoHkpoIwDvJ8U9jP1VdmEjG5lZByOEC5OwkNoGN0r6_eWUYB15BUHc162MkVYFx3h1528TG32oqwE1LhCKV9lo9qr5nytZVBwLkp3xZ5ItF4o/s400/sherman03.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cindy Sherman, Untitled Film Still #3 , 1977</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">In </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">addition to this clear</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">affinity with</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">the cinematic</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">medium,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">Sherman</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">also centered on</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">the connection</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">of paintings from the</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">pre-modern</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">art</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">tradition with the</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">postmodern world.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">In the series</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">History</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">Portraits</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">(1989 - 1990)</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">Sherman</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">has</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">photographed</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">herself</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">in the style</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">of the traditional painters</span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 16px;">.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHpjB-rDqVaqC_fh8B0_FLYUd2L9zTLb7zNB0ESMR_jXdVYJCXl4ymKbI0485MbdTt-8ebkd34AVtan_bYrAb0S2Z9wdgTOGqEmRsLmnE88bZO21OsU9Ib4tZT_e4wB5lS4lYX855ddtK/s1600/cindysherman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHpjB-rDqVaqC_fh8B0_FLYUd2L9zTLb7zNB0ESMR_jXdVYJCXl4ymKbI0485MbdTt-8ebkd34AVtan_bYrAb0S2Z9wdgTOGqEmRsLmnE88bZO21OsU9Ib4tZT_e4wB5lS4lYX855ddtK/s400/cindysherman.jpg" width="272" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cindy Sherman, Untitled, 1989</td></tr>
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<span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">Using props to replace human body parts, the artist gets inside the character portrayed. This is the moment that Sherman's work starts to get unsettling, even creepy.</span><br />
<span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">Also in these works</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">, the image of </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">the woman is</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">critically</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">defined.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">This happens for example</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">in</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><i><span class="" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">Untitled</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">#228</span></i><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps atn" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">in 1990</span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">Here</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">Sherman</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">portrays</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">herself as</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">the biblical</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">character</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">Judith</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> who holds </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">the severed head</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">of Holofernes</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiElfKId1C40FCECqgkM-Gp54_IMRf09hNFleTE07F8fJBGg7ul0mmRNrkOwUQUhqLFRciXN_4JV4YuodMy2cSCq5Wn34GK5GCvF3o16de4d21-SqWWJwIWAEJvFLDas4sybpmp4Kw4rmxZ/s1600/cindy-sherman-untitled-228-1990.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiElfKId1C40FCECqgkM-Gp54_IMRf09hNFleTE07F8fJBGg7ul0mmRNrkOwUQUhqLFRciXN_4JV4YuodMy2cSCq5Wn34GK5GCvF3o16de4d21-SqWWJwIWAEJvFLDas4sybpmp4Kw4rmxZ/s400/cindy-sherman-untitled-228-1990.jpg" width="235" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cindy Sherman, Untitled #228, 1990</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">This theme</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">reflects a </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">certain</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">feminism.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">The woman</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">in this story</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">is</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">indeed</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">depicted as</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> a </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">pious</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">heroine who </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">saves</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">her people from</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">foreign domination</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">. </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">This is</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">an exceptional</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">theme</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">in the Bible,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">where the woman is</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">usually depicted as</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">the fruit of</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">all sins</span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">Dozens of books have been written about Cindy Sherman's oeuvre, but the thing that gets overlooked quit often is her affinity with fashion. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">Her fashion series of 1983 caused a stirr. Sherman was asked to do a series of advertisements for the Dianne B. store. These photographs appeared in Interview Magazine. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8O4fu6XA1WyqYIdFtGgcHMsLWUomMj8lxaDsFHwWIm8yywc-59uohX_J7cgMlfJ_klIBHTHdSSRXAckG0fDd_AljqARC5wOhB_uhGzfFSk8mHrRqwtbMKv9fE25jJsDrF5MWZPJMgyxg/s1600/Cindy-Sherman,-1984.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8O4fu6XA1WyqYIdFtGgcHMsLWUomMj8lxaDsFHwWIm8yywc-59uohX_J7cgMlfJ_klIBHTHdSSRXAckG0fDd_AljqARC5wOhB_uhGzfFSk8mHrRqwtbMKv9fE25jJsDrF5MWZPJMgyxg/s400/Cindy-Sherman,-1984.jpg" width="258" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaK-k8kU7T5fXFifKCoMDCp-SChepb0VWxTGbIGVAkCslFJENm5mJyZxYLnUegkM4rCVL6_Tot9LjzCOC2GaWNSKxw3kxtPgj0gdOxwzlX1Xk1peCn8sy2FyUbpUWgFVG-7RrDpKI8cNaR/s1600/cindy-sherman-untitled+1984.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaK-k8kU7T5fXFifKCoMDCp-SChepb0VWxTGbIGVAkCslFJENm5mJyZxYLnUegkM4rCVL6_Tot9LjzCOC2GaWNSKxw3kxtPgj0gdOxwzlX1Xk1peCn8sy2FyUbpUWgFVG-7RrDpKI8cNaR/s400/cindy-sherman-untitled+1984.jpg" width="258" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7pGjlLJVmah8iJjH_0mm5rLtfMH4LxiW30DSjYedlXjFK24aHqTDCo98WGh8eIJqJ8bzAaZ5fZyUMFtu9NfcIJmGLfoN-F_P1r-_sG5laW9_KSatuUI6FMlMSRnrO8aWlNvivqqKD8Pg4/s1600/sherman+1984.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7pGjlLJVmah8iJjH_0mm5rLtfMH4LxiW30DSjYedlXjFK24aHqTDCo98WGh8eIJqJ8bzAaZ5fZyUMFtu9NfcIJmGLfoN-F_P1r-_sG5laW9_KSatuUI6FMlMSRnrO8aWlNvivqqKD8Pg4/s400/sherman+1984.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cindy Sherman for Interview Magazine, 1983</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">The pictures that resulted from Sherman's efforts can be described as the antithesis of conventional fashion photography like that of Richard Avedon. The female persona is displayed as imperfect, distorted, psychologically challenged and worn down. The poses appear uncomfortable, clumsy and even silly. The clothes have lost their shape and are unflattering. I interpret this as a feminist way of pushing the boundaries of what is considered to be the perfect female body.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">In 1993 Sherman repeated this act with pictures for Harper's Bazaar. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVLaAdT3fGLh5ua6hC5NPqlmY49pjMi6OkN1w6j5tHXvD7t367O5S0yizS1dAOBGXYrpYkDY5xh3GX5fa60dM_1V2hJztoN8FfCs4ujjefCL-QafI9MQquZHRt3E_i6kCRCYGIeRgD4AGu/s1600/Cindy-Sherman-for-Harper-s-fashion-photography-35487_1366_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVLaAdT3fGLh5ua6hC5NPqlmY49pjMi6OkN1w6j5tHXvD7t367O5S0yizS1dAOBGXYrpYkDY5xh3GX5fa60dM_1V2hJztoN8FfCs4ujjefCL-QafI9MQquZHRt3E_i6kCRCYGIeRgD4AGu/s400/Cindy-Sherman-for-Harper-s-fashion-photography-35487_1366_1920.jpg" width="283" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh9nMwjIQfNf3TfYGCD9fsZMCdqZ9mCMt9-gywJCySgUTjXyzTcwd95j1pXCK-0MJAPSFYIur8PDw3SMXICOfY-neUzslVrS-Sd6yY93e50f1bzt1Mt1kzEeHIv2Rvbwrl4mCq3wDIc4Z3/s1600/Cindy-Sherman-for-Harper-s-fashion-photography-35488_1367_1920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh9nMwjIQfNf3TfYGCD9fsZMCdqZ9mCMt9-gywJCySgUTjXyzTcwd95j1pXCK-0MJAPSFYIur8PDw3SMXICOfY-neUzslVrS-Sd6yY93e50f1bzt1Mt1kzEeHIv2Rvbwrl4mCq3wDIc4Z3/s400/Cindy-Sherman-for-Harper-s-fashion-photography-35488_1367_1920.jpg" width="283" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cindy Sherman for Harper's Bazaar, 1993</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">To me these look much more 'fashion' and can be compared to some alternative contemporary fashion editorials. In the nineties however, this imagery was considered innovative and even provocative.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">In 1994 she collaborated with Rei Kawakubo, providing advertisement material </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">for the fall/winter 1994 collection of Comme des Garçons. The views of this fashion label coincided with Sherman's look on photography.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdm5GO8MLwygZDYhKiwzGOAxASX-RekhU7dcm1cvRKdoLcEa2ulNVpeLv3kvq8iKSBktcaRyouzC1ZMAY9JJdYNCqKKXzoqMf4l8U-irqwAYwz2WXTOpi7hdOph4gS6a5mN3D8-885FZkS/s1600/comme+des+garconds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdm5GO8MLwygZDYhKiwzGOAxASX-RekhU7dcm1cvRKdoLcEa2ulNVpeLv3kvq8iKSBktcaRyouzC1ZMAY9JJdYNCqKKXzoqMf4l8U-irqwAYwz2WXTOpi7hdOph4gS6a5mN3D8-885FZkS/s400/comme+des+garconds.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cindy Sherman for Comme des Garçons, 1994</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"> In 2006, she worked on advertisements for designer Marc Jacobs with fashion photographer Juergen Teller.</span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibmnwyWSm08DdDRs48UdF8E6dMRHDhX69qUZ_oBaeV_IAFmqjMGM3vAP0ExXFB05RVesWXKNLaAnUYRc3VsRnyDifLwOXG1nDqD93UsbHvITJEqGF7wZxRm1q-EEm32WlGqqoLPoKWh-nD/s1600/marc+jacobs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibmnwyWSm08DdDRs48UdF8E6dMRHDhX69qUZ_oBaeV_IAFmqjMGM3vAP0ExXFB05RVesWXKNLaAnUYRc3VsRnyDifLwOXG1nDqD93UsbHvITJEqGF7wZxRm1q-EEm32WlGqqoLPoKWh-nD/s400/marc+jacobs.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cindy Sherman and Juergen Teller for Marc Jacobs, 2006</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 19px;">Notice again the poses that are not usually used in fashion photography. The construction of this picture resembles that of a family portrait.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 19px;">In 2008, she made a series for Balenciaga. Once again the characters look old, tired and out of place.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghtZZTBH1rjraVZ158AM5FOPGMitbcB_jdcUhLEM7e8TwIZK2IvZRhz50raHn5bI30Ab633mM-7WWEBmuEy9abELX0t78GkqNP8VJISe4ovqHaRUwz6l-wETVebNlC9ue9NZZoKhU1LBxM/s1600/Sherman+for+Vogue+Paris+3+for+Balenciaga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghtZZTBH1rjraVZ158AM5FOPGMitbcB_jdcUhLEM7e8TwIZK2IvZRhz50raHn5bI30Ab633mM-7WWEBmuEy9abELX0t78GkqNP8VJISe4ovqHaRUwz6l-wETVebNlC9ue9NZZoKhU1LBxM/s400/Sherman+for+Vogue+Paris+3+for+Balenciaga.jpg" width="303" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jt1PNFD3qp9SWjlZuFDmEv5rz45im_5Sv690e94mHCoZl9GqsKkgcwP5_QrDitQa7hdcogY-5qbXTlI443PKYU8FKc2OqxqQHSynkgJob79XI7MxlSZHAcgOW5j_7kxMKT5x5CbZNiBz/s1600/Sherman+for+Vogue+Paris+6+2007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jt1PNFD3qp9SWjlZuFDmEv5rz45im_5Sv690e94mHCoZl9GqsKkgcwP5_QrDitQa7hdcogY-5qbXTlI443PKYU8FKc2OqxqQHSynkgJob79XI7MxlSZHAcgOW5j_7kxMKT5x5CbZNiBz/s400/Sherman+for+Vogue+Paris+6+2007.jpg" width="302" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWERR0Enwqhz1BcH0x0JiVGXHj8CZtWJ4loYxPNAodYsqW3U5mg74Trzx639oWy7m1tkTxZfEUchkK2usPZC5mLaizZg0cq-qonxGT2PO3_Je9WnWmis5jBRsZE6rzECKeCVI2Q_5a4vP6/s1600/cindy_sherman_balenciaga3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWERR0Enwqhz1BcH0x0JiVGXHj8CZtWJ4loYxPNAodYsqW3U5mg74Trzx639oWy7m1tkTxZfEUchkK2usPZC5mLaizZg0cq-qonxGT2PO3_Je9WnWmis5jBRsZE6rzECKeCVI2Q_5a4vP6/s400/cindy_sherman_balenciaga3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cindy Sherman, Untitled (Balenciaga), 2008</td></tr>
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<span style="line-height: 19px;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In 2011 cosmetic company M.A.C. acquired Sherman as the face and photographer for the fall line. The three images of the campaign depict three different colorpalets. Sherman transforms into a clown, a vulgar heiress and an angel-faced cheerleader. Not exactly what you have in mind when thinking of a make-up add.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNgFE5cXUF20osTtTACkK59XkxNyS6maKa3vuxkyd0KJLT4gtEVM_5YPPFaS8XpHsZCN-z1ZDMmv9u5clI45hw77yU8d-_HMd_h0HY_bv29crSB7iHqtDuujf_TWgfeHG45HU6OY7STkO/s1600/Cindy-Sherman-for-MAC-Fal-2011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNgFE5cXUF20osTtTACkK59XkxNyS6maKa3vuxkyd0KJLT4gtEVM_5YPPFaS8XpHsZCN-z1ZDMmv9u5clI45hw77yU8d-_HMd_h0HY_bv29crSB7iHqtDuujf_TWgfeHG45HU6OY7STkO/s640/Cindy-Sherman-for-MAC-Fal-2011.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cindy Sherman for M.A.C., fall 2011</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Although Cindy Sherman's road can't be reduced to a feminist battle, you could say that in this add Sherman's voice was heard. By replacing the young perfect model with a female artist, who's well in her fifties, but above all raising fashion advertizing to the level of free art, liberates not only women but also fashion photography.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Imperfection in fashion photography is on the rise. Unfortunately this still happens too scarcely and stays limited to the alternative magazines.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I give my vote to art, theater and (limited) ugliness in my mags!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.gagosian.com/artists/cindy-sherman/" target="_blank">Cindy Sherman's work</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.moma.org/visit/calendar/exhibitions/1170" target="_blank">Museum of Modern Art in NY</a> :</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">A retrospective of Cindy Sherman runs now </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">till the 11th of June 2012.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-16415581525494768452012-04-06T11:57:00.000+02:002012-04-06T11:57:03.129+02:00Printed Art: From Hiëronymus Bosch To Carven<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Prints in fashion are used to embellish fabrics, to convey a feeling or a message, to lend a design more detail or provide a close link with sources of inspiration. Fabric printing has been done for over 2500 years. Originally used to mimic other more expensive fabrics, paint was applied on clothing. Not much later whole designs drawn from nature were used to decorate dresses and other textiles. The flower print, still very popular, was born in this period. Some of the finest examples you can now admire </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">during the expo 'Living Fashion'</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> held in the Antwerp Fashion Museum.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Handpainted 'Sits' Kimono, 1730-1760, Collectie Jacoba de Jonge</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Now, hundreds of years later, prints still play an important role in contemporary fashion. Most of these prints spring from the minds of designers but some are taken from existing iconic art works. Yves Saint Laurent was a pioneer in using a famous visual reference in a fashion show. I'm talking of course about the Mondrian dress, which quickly became an icon in itself. Not only the very graphic and strong print, but also the typical sixties cut of the design, makes that this little dress will always be considered a masterpiece of 60's pop-art. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yves Saint Laurent, 1965</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mondrian, <i>Composition II in Red, Blue and Yellow, </i>1930</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">With the Mondrian dress, YSL made a reference to the immensely popular artist Andy Warhol, who took banal, everyday objects and proclaimed them art. YSL reversed this theory and used a revered painting in a decorative way.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Not much later, Warhol's art was being used in dresses. The first was a paper dress using the typical Campbell Soup iconography, but several department stores began producing remakes of this dress. A case in point that commercialism bloomed in the 60's. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ZlAjpMDASHUgPZ0wFXnWWGM5LFXRxCP_uXpB6OrY40c26WQ-wSOalPSc_mZfqBMnyxvG3yzA3_Ychz6e8qTbYb_bZ380fqEIp6zAi7cuIFIvXUzYUoh8PymQpvJ9Hu5vs2sK3Xk6zfCJ/s1600/Scott+Paper,+1966,+WarholSouperDress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ZlAjpMDASHUgPZ0wFXnWWGM5LFXRxCP_uXpB6OrY40c26WQ-wSOalPSc_mZfqBMnyxvG3yzA3_Ychz6e8qTbYb_bZ380fqEIp6zAi7cuIFIvXUzYUoh8PymQpvJ9Hu5vs2sK3Xk6zfCJ/s400/Scott+Paper,+1966,+WarholSouperDress.jpg" width="312" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scott Paper, Warhol Soup Dress, 1966</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX9bST9UJjJjvj5xUldpyZfD0Y_0DYpiCpJssC3NDVmZf1IYTg9iv-9cmuCPNn_4sIYdXOvJL5cM6288HzvXUPdSP39EpB2Veo9F8DjYSf0e5jowwuYAgpC7VmvfT7plO-mqFEgKFvq3Yb/s1600/warhol+campbell+soup+1962.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX9bST9UJjJjvj5xUldpyZfD0Y_0DYpiCpJssC3NDVmZf1IYTg9iv-9cmuCPNn_4sIYdXOvJL5cM6288HzvXUPdSP39EpB2Veo9F8DjYSf0e5jowwuYAgpC7VmvfT7plO-mqFEgKFvq3Yb/s400/warhol+campbell+soup+1962.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy Warhol, <i>Campbell Soup</i>, 1962</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The last few seasons, the tendency of literally taking artwork and putting it on the fabric is making a comeback. For the Spring/Summer Collection of 2012, Rodarte found inspiration in the dramatic life and art of Van Gogh.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCmBbXfvQui28fXj7IlR8FW1Smizl9RcCoyguxHuknQp3DKDZySMpyknTYbEHwKS1Bsr9BdSE8xSITAZfyawbqHiAgQJ5bohkZJzRotk0ImFHVd_jdqCfSYeX-Lc0YIXHBwuchITjwgZpX/s1600/rodarte+ss+2012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCmBbXfvQui28fXj7IlR8FW1Smizl9RcCoyguxHuknQp3DKDZySMpyknTYbEHwKS1Bsr9BdSE8xSITAZfyawbqHiAgQJ5bohkZJzRotk0ImFHVd_jdqCfSYeX-Lc0YIXHBwuchITjwgZpX/s400/rodarte+ss+2012.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rodarte, S/S 2012</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMYv2GmxGKFE5x4Rq2wuZeSpqd64PB1EWMdQ_Y-O6Gd1RGq5-RF3rBnHTQPxlD6BJL5cJTPAVC9vcG75vpJKZocbUA9hyphenhyphenbgjbsJfes86KhcnzfgydI_QEAG2pXPnCKgHi4OBt5ezxGsrf/s1600/van+gogh+sunflowers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMYv2GmxGKFE5x4Rq2wuZeSpqd64PB1EWMdQ_Y-O6Gd1RGq5-RF3rBnHTQPxlD6BJL5cJTPAVC9vcG75vpJKZocbUA9hyphenhyphenbgjbsJfes86KhcnzfgydI_QEAG2pXPnCKgHi4OBt5ezxGsrf/s400/van+gogh+sunflowers.jpg" width="316" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Van Gogh, <i>Sunflowers</i>, 1888</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This season, both Carven and Akris were persuaded by an artwork. My personal favorite is the dress inspired by 'The Garden of Earthly Delights' by Hiëronymus Bosch, who was like Mondrian and Van Gogh from the Low Countries.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3wiYQL5hYHgQydc-OtO0fbwZs3PEUU7koaZsrk37-IuGyH8XH75Bs2DUJeSxYV76OtxtmlnhyHwHpxQ61mAhyRVcAtWwfhk9xJ6hmnHWVn-Qtk6_g35C1qhoOGR3rc74qWn5m77wgL58/s1600/carven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3wiYQL5hYHgQydc-OtO0fbwZs3PEUU7koaZsrk37-IuGyH8XH75Bs2DUJeSxYV76OtxtmlnhyHwHpxQ61mAhyRVcAtWwfhk9xJ6hmnHWVn-Qtk6_g35C1qhoOGR3rc74qWn5m77wgL58/s400/carven.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carven, F/W 2012</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrM0_oU4wvIdWZSAL8THtJEpSKrpaVA0L_knDdIr9zzMJKbKl5LxFiYrAZo-ShKVCzOMWop3yJpiOJbsndNgt8hsnv6qnFhE6SgD0Ik0UiSrjVuQwFhw15_NapS6glbHQPzj0zggUsMO2L/s1600/delightcbosch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrM0_oU4wvIdWZSAL8THtJEpSKrpaVA0L_knDdIr9zzMJKbKl5LxFiYrAZo-ShKVCzOMWop3yJpiOJbsndNgt8hsnv6qnFhE6SgD0Ik0UiSrjVuQwFhw15_NapS6glbHQPzj0zggUsMO2L/s400/delightcbosch.jpg" width="361" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiëronymus Bosch, <i>The Garden of Earthly Delights</i>, 1490-1510</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Akris' use of Franz Klines painting is less conspicuous because of the abstract nature of his art, nonetheless it's a literal adopting of the distinct lines.</span><div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK9s3E-vv7ykACWPfrf-OZ4UQwwBtMJ52KgnRKY88NR1So8cwaSZlIm6MuNJ19Snar9toD_yYlBlEyLHEdVD1LOiIF7GSquEXrJeKgKV0DOJBh8y02teW-IlOoU2OgO7GsrO4MOVRxK3nt/s1600/akris.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK9s3E-vv7ykACWPfrf-OZ4UQwwBtMJ52KgnRKY88NR1So8cwaSZlIm6MuNJ19Snar9toD_yYlBlEyLHEdVD1LOiIF7GSquEXrJeKgKV0DOJBh8y02teW-IlOoU2OgO7GsrO4MOVRxK3nt/s400/akris.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Akris, F/W 2012</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFU_rY5s-78Fd36VPoHdzjOsXK9xJLri3emJpMI-DSeDjl4vT6WPuWCpAlhbJRJwSDKKgdbIvpcWx2qPhcCIzKskjJAGRt0d0n32wP-aPxBlHxPgtH3yCO79WfJo-UezjLFhc3GB5hE7jD/s1600/franz+kline+painting+no.+7+1952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFU_rY5s-78Fd36VPoHdzjOsXK9xJLri3emJpMI-DSeDjl4vT6WPuWCpAlhbJRJwSDKKgdbIvpcWx2qPhcCIzKskjJAGRt0d0n32wP-aPxBlHxPgtH3yCO79WfJo-UezjLFhc3GB5hE7jD/s400/franz+kline+painting+no.+7+1952.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Franz Kline,<i> Painting no. 7</i>, 1952</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Countless fashion collections are inspired by an art movement, an artist or one particular artwork, but almost always the source of inspiration is researched, interpreted, transformed and only then applied to the designs. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">These literal references, like presented here, are of a different nature. They are often used to transfer the iconic or mystical power of certain images to the design. Although I think the design itself is more valuable when sources are integrated in form and image rather than in print, literal references can be very powerful tools.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Appropriation or plagiarism: you decide.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.momu.be/en/index_momu.jsp?layout=momu" target="_blank">Exposition 'Living Fashion' @ Momu Antwerpen : till 12th of August</a></div>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-49103972098738650492012-03-22T15:17:00.000+01:002012-03-23T10:03:04.093+01:00Belgium Adores Laura Marling<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Bww2j3stsIMQkl23C6TgofBNVe1DNBys2DHqofDgFrr4k9NOGeCVvAzcg3uCVQsl5Fv9xrpCkThrUaktAGBaj7cqyIVz0iJFjBtTFOdTsiUKFRPbjHWM1h9RlNfd1_wQ4JPyYYRlJPKx/s1600/laura%2520marling%25201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Bww2j3stsIMQkl23C6TgofBNVe1DNBys2DHqofDgFrr4k9NOGeCVvAzcg3uCVQsl5Fv9xrpCkThrUaktAGBaj7cqyIVz0iJFjBtTFOdTsiUKFRPbjHWM1h9RlNfd1_wQ4JPyYYRlJPKx/s640/laura%2520marling%25201.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">22 years old, beautiful and love connections with some of the most eligible bachelors of the alternative music scene. Laura Marling has everything going for her. Some might forget how gifted the young singer/songwriter is. I can assure you, this Monday evening in Brussels, in the cosy setting of the Ancienne Belgique, nobody could even doubt Marling's astounding talent.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The British musician was born in Reading, England in 1990. At the age of 5 she began playing the guitar and at only sixteen she became a part of the London folk scene. With famous friends like Noah and the Whale and Mumford and Sons, who drew inspiration from American folk, she had the chance to learn from the best. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">She started with Noah and the Whale as a vocalist, where she grew closer to singer Charlie Fink.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">When you rely on the music Laura and Charlie produced during this period, their love affair was rocky. In 2008 Marling left Fink for Marcus Mumford. The stunningly beautiful Noah and the Whale album 'The First Days of Spring'(2009) can be read as a heartfelt lament on their break up.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">The Black Cab session where they play music together is one of my favorite videos. I love Fink's voice, it's a shame that the last Noah and the Whale album is so uninspired.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Black Cab Sessions: Charlie Fink: Give a Little Love, Laura Marling: Alas I Can not Swim, 2007</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In 2008, when Marling was only nineteen her first album 'Alas I can not swim' came out, followed by 'I speak because I can' in 2010. They were both nominated for the Mercury Music Prize. 2011 saw the birth of her third and latest album 'A creature I don't know'. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In the same year she received the Brit Award for British Female Solo Artist.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In Brussels Laura opened with 'Just a Card' and some tracks from this last album. The first magical moment was the superb version of 'Blackberry stone'. One of my personal favorites.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Laura Marling, Blackberry Stone, march 19th, Ancienne Belgique Brussels. video: Uschi Cop</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-align: justify;">This execution was exemplary for all her earlier work that she played that evening. She managed to take these known songs to a whole other level. Although I had heard every song at least a hundred times, it felt like I heard them for the first time.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This was also the case with the closing song 'I Speak Because I can'.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: x-small;">Laura Marling, I Speak Because I can, march 19th, Ancienne Belgique Brussels. video: Uschi Cop</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Marling brought with her a great band which included a cellist who really contributed to the dramatic power of the performance, for example in the new single 'Sophia'.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Laura Marling, Blackberry Stone, march 19th, Ancienne Belgique Brussels. video: Uschi Cop</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Last but not least I bring you the first listen to a new song by Marling.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: x-small;">Laura Marling, New Song (Once is Enough), march 19th, Ancienne Belgique Brussels. video: Uschi Cop</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I leave you with the set list and links to my spotify account for all Laura Marling songs and the album The First Days of Spring by Noah and the Whale.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Enjoy!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">The Mere Alchemist</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><strong>Set list</strong>
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<strong>Just a Card </strong>[A Creature I don't Know]<br />
<strong>The Muse </strong>[A Creature I don't Know]<br />
<strong>Salinas </strong>[A Creature I don't Know]<br />
<strong>Don't Ask Me Why</strong> [A Creature I don't Know]<br />
<strong>Blackberry Stone </strong>[I Speak Because I Can]<br />
<strong>Alas I Can Not Swim</strong> [Alas I Can Not Swim]<br />
<strong>Goodbye England </strong>(Covered In Snow) [I Speak Because I Can]<br />
<strong>Dance Dance Dance</strong> (Cover Neil Young)<br />
<strong>My Manic and I</strong> [Alas I Can Not Swim]<br />
<strong>New Untitled Song</strong> (Once is Enough)<br />
<strong>Alpha Shallows </strong>[I Speak Because I Can]<br />
<strong>Ghosts </strong>[Alas I can not Swim]<br />
<strong>My Friends </strong>[A Creature I don't Know]<br />
<strong>Sophia </strong>[A Creature I don't Know]<br />
<strong>Rambling Man</strong> [I Speak Because I Can]<br />
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Encore:<br />
<strong>I Speak Because I can</strong> [I Speak Because I Can]</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /><strong>Spotify</strong><br />
</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Noah and the Whale - First days of spring </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"><a href="http://open.spotify.com/user/1110319955/playlist/5OY5E3LJcAl04b4XLGogBZ" target="_blank">http://open.spotify.com/user/1110319955/playlist/5OY5E3LJcAl04b4XLGogBZ</a></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Laura Marling - All Albums</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 12px;"><a href="http://open.spotify.com/user/1110319955/playlist/01AAaDGie5pipaVH5I6C7E" target="_blank">http://open.spotify.com/user/1110319955/playlist/01AAaDGie5pipaVH5I6C7E</a></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><strong></strong></span>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-40542812776318042192012-03-12T11:12:00.001+01:002012-03-12T11:16:06.348+01:00Highlights F/W 2012 Paris: The Belgian Special Edition<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">With over eighty shows, Paris Fashion Week is the world's most renowned fashion event. I found it difficult to choose just a couple of labels to review, but for me the Belgian designers were among the best. It wouldn't hurt the modest Belgians to be a bit more chauvinistic. That's why, proud as I am of our designers, I decided to do a special on the labels who represented our small country during this international gathering of fashion lovers. For next fall a certain minimalism could be discerned in the collections. Also the oversized trend really persists.</span><br />
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<b style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-align: -webkit-auto;">A.F. Vandevorst</b>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A.F. Vandevorst, F/W 2012, Paris</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">'Le Film Noir' isn't far away in this brilliant collection by partners An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx. The black fedora hat has become a symbol of these dark detective movies which reached the height of their popularity in the 40's and originated from the German expressionists movement. Inspiration was also drawn from the German artist Joseph Beuys, who regularly wore similar head gear. The materials and colors used: grays, blacks, felt, rabbit skin are a reference to his art. The covering of the face has a direct link with his performance 'I like America and America likes me', where he spent 3 days locked in with a coyote. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joseph Beuys with rabbit, 1982</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joseph Beuys, I like America and America likes me, 1974</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Vandevorst managed to bring together these elements and create a captivating show.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Haider Ackermann</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haider Ackermann, F/W 2012</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Allthough Haider Ackermann isn't technically Belgian, I always include him in this category. He grew up in the Netherlands but studied at the Academy of Antwerp. Right now, he's being represented by the same Belgian management as Ann Demeulemeester. His collection was so amazing that I decided not to be fussy about the definition 'Belgian'.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This season Ackermann has really outdone himself. His signature draping made way for a more simple construction of the pieces. The result is an unconstrained elegance painted in a simply divine color palette. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Cédric Charlier</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cédric Charlier, F/W 2012, Paris</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Cédric Charlier lost his job as creative director of Cacharel last year, obviously it didn't stand in the way of his own collection blossoming. The pieces are very Belgian: classic quality tailoring with an edge. Very wearable, but I would love to see what Charlier is capable of when he shakes the shackles of the realistic.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Ann Demeulemeester</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ann Demeulemeester, F/W 2012, Paris</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Ann Demeulemeester's distinctive style doesn't waver in this Fall collection. The designer picks up on the trend of oversized leather gloves but integrates them in the beautiful dresses. What amazes me is that the designer can stay true to this very characteristic warrior woman type, but always gives the crowd something new. That's what I call talent.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Dries van Noten</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dries Van Noten, F/W 2012, Paris</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">As always Van Noten awed the world with his magnificent collage prints. The colors were again splendid with </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">punches of white, which made the whole collection lighter and easier to digest. High rised pants and oversized dresses with emphasis on a slightly lowered waist are reminiscent of the seventies. Lovely collection with some 'to die for pieces' like the shoes, what else did you expect from the Belgian master himself? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Veronique Leroy</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Veronique Leroy, F/W 2012, Paris</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Over the last few years Veronique Leroy, as one of the least known Belgian designers, has really caught my eye. No different with this season, where I was pleasantly surprised by the youthful pieces and interesting proportions. Although t</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">he styling was a bit old fashioned, the clothes definitely struck the right chord. The combination of different materials and volumes looked incredibly interesting.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Anthony Vaccarello</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anthony Vaccarello, F/W 2012, Paris</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">'Bruxellois' Vaccarello doesn't make a secret of his Italian roots in this slick collection. Satin, gold and iridescent green make for a kind of glamour seldom seen in Belgian design. The most deserving was the contraposition of the sexy cut out tops and masculine suits. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Now tell me us Belgians -'kiekenfretters', 'sinjoren', 'manenblussers', 'stroppendragers' and all the others- don't have a right to be proud of our fashion contribution. I'm curious about your opinion on these designers. Belgian or not, let me know which Belgian collection you like best</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> and why. Spread the new Belgian pride!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b><br /></b></span>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-48721067123301086012012-03-06T12:55:00.000+01:002012-03-06T12:55:22.648+01:00Highlights F/W 2012 Milan<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I consider Milan to be the Godmother of all fashion capitals. Held in high regard by all fashion lovers, but let's admit it, at times a bit traditional, old fashioned even. This city has got a weakness for anything classic and slick. Nothing wrong with that, but I have a soft spot for boldness and experiment in fashion. That's why I took the liberty to make my own selection of the best collections of Fall/Winter 2012. The third part of my fashion week quartet! Enjoy!</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Bathrobe Grace</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jill Sander, F/W 2012, Milan</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It's with regret we see Raf Simons leave the German house of Jill Sander. The Belgian creator has worked six years to lend Jill Sander the youthful and trendy allure it has today. But the return of Mrs. Sander herself send Simons on his way. For this fall collection he was inspired by home wear. The long beautiful coats were held close by the models themselves or were left undone like bathrobes. The soft color palette was reminiscent of the glow of indoor lighting. This softness stood in high contrast with the black dresses shown at the closure of the show.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Cloudy Emerald</span></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piazza Sempione, F/W 2012, Milan</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This collection makes me long for next fall and winter isn't even over yet! Piazza Sempione's clothes have a very down to earth feel and are truly wearable. The short parkas look both amazing and practical. These are pieces for women who still dare to be girls.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Sci-fi Heaven</b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fendi, F/W 2012, Milan</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Avatar meets The Matrix. In a fabulous way. </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Fake fur, leather, sixties eyewear, 19th century footwear, snake skin leggings, they all came together in an amazing cocktail at the Fendi show. I couldn't resist including some pictures of the shoes. Fendi got inspired by the 19th century for this amazing shoe wear. Must Haves!</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Presidential with a Twist</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gabriele Colangelo, F/W 2012, Milan</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">There isn't a thing I don't like about this elegant, understated collection. The over-accentuated waists are very flattering and embrace the feminine figure. It wouldn't surprise me if Colangelo looked to Jacky Kennedy for inspiration. The simple and elegant dresses combined with 60's looking headwear scream first lady. </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Classic Quality</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Don't worry I've got some solid beautiful clothes for you as well. Bottega Veneta delivered some exquisite tailoring this season with some surprises. Amongst them were the oversized gloves and the magnificent prints. That's what I call Italian Quality!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Today is the last day of Paris Fashion Week. Stay tuned for this last chapter of the fashion week series: Coming Soon!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span></div>
</div>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-5038224217500171272012-02-29T19:54:00.000+01:002012-03-05T22:30:07.199+01:00Highlights F/W 2012 London<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">London Fashion week was all about color and prints this season. A lot of them showed an ethnic inspiration. The collage trend was caried on in bright clothes consisting of pieces of different fabrics.</span><br />
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<strong><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Soft vs Hard</span></strong></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Acne, F/W 2012, London</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Acne has gone through an immense evolution. Founded as a denim brand, Acne now has raised the stakes and can easily compete in the high range. The soft color palette was inspired by artist Hanneline Rogeberg. The oversized jackets, blouses and coats granted the silhouettes a strong look.</span><br />
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<strong><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Collage Genius</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basso & Brooke, F/W 2012, London</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Chrisopher Brooke and Bruno Basso profit from a unique collaboration. Brazilian Basso is responsible for the amazing prints and British Brooke designs the silhouettes. According to the duo, the prints were based on paintings by French impressionist Matisse, but to me they remind me of the surrealism of Magritte.</span><br />
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<strong><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Double the trouble</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Felder Felder, F/W 2012, London </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Designing a collection with your twin sister, the Felder sisters aren't the only ones who had the same idea. The Row, by celebrities Marie-Kate and Ashley Olsen has become immensely popular. Sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy aren't twins but their label Rodarte betrays an exceptional alignment of minds. Just a few examples of how well a colab between sisters can work.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">This season, Daniela and Anette Felder have distanced themselfs from their rock estehetic. Never has there been a more earthy and soft Felder Felder collection.</span><br />
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<strong><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Graphic Punk</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Louise Gray, F/W 2012, London</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">More bold prints in Louise Gray's Fall/Winter collection. Ethnic influences go hand in hand with punk elements. There are also some references to cubism.</span><br />
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<strong><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">New Serenity</span></strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiV-M3kmXnbUwdJ5-81faebwjNy0JCb4rDD58pBF99eCvAPagnWxV1tukXJC-4pBKKSYwoOKOuWdKwdBiXLsiuV6Vz78c9Gz3gBHVNeC7iTsaC27OL9nbBBO4ui7xzRkbrV_4fG_xvun1j/s1600/lee3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiV-M3kmXnbUwdJ5-81faebwjNy0JCb4rDD58pBF99eCvAPagnWxV1tukXJC-4pBKKSYwoOKOuWdKwdBiXLsiuV6Vz78c9Gz3gBHVNeC7iTsaC27OL9nbBBO4ui7xzRkbrV_4fG_xvun1j/s400/lee3.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Dion Lee, F/W 2012, London</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The most exciting London debut this season came from an Australian designer. Dion Lee is a master in construction and usage of fabrics. These are often hi-tech like the light-reflecting textile he uses for his dresses. One to watch this Aussie!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Next in line: Milan!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span><br />
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</div>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-91401511567351139322012-02-27T12:14:00.000+01:002012-03-05T22:30:23.598+01:00Highlights F/W 2012 New York<br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It has begun.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I am of course talking about the fashion weeks. This month the Fall/Winter Collections for 2012 are being presented in the fashion capitals. The big apple kicked off the festivities on the 9th of February. After a week of shows, presentations and parties New York has passed the torch to London. The London fashion week took place this week alongside the Milan fashion week and the height of all this fashion madness will begin this tuesday in Paris! For now I'll sum up my personal highlights of the NY fashion week:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>So wearable</b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Theyskens Theory, F/W 2012, NY</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Our own Olivier Theyskens doesn't need to proof himself anymore. His elegant, subtle view on everyday wear has convinced women of every generation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Sheer fabrics are mixed with woolen or leather pants. Coats are again longer and radiate the class of the 1940's.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Promising Debut</b></span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVQ0KNlYG6hafY93T2WI4jpBbdMuCN3eI2egYSZR8DZ2VDym1i649T9HprLNYxpw8d2WTmjxFpLgQycl4bMVi-w9TQpmjCqnWvs9YddNQlD0-ttQSjoHncS9NXcIPT77HVlcQvbA3g-ZzW/s1600/brood2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVQ0KNlYG6hafY93T2WI4jpBbdMuCN3eI2egYSZR8DZ2VDym1i649T9HprLNYxpw8d2WTmjxFpLgQycl4bMVi-w9TQpmjCqnWvs9YddNQlD0-ttQSjoHncS9NXcIPT77HVlcQvbA3g-ZzW/s400/brood2.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Brood, F/W 2012, NY</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">For Brood's first collection comfort and youth were the keywords. Creative director </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Serkan Saries drew inspiration from sportswear for these versatile clothes. I think the marbled prints are fabulous.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Femine Luxury</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Farah Angsana, F/W 2012, NY</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Farah Angsana managed to create a very elegant collection. Wrap dresses, coats and evening gowns were predominant and anything but plain. Luxury can be a virtue.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Snow queen</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">J. Mendel, F/W 2012, NY</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Furs and soft lines made for an icy yet sweet collection at J.Mendel. What made the pieces interesting were the contradictions in the silhouettes. Knits and metallic fabrics were combined. Once you're able to melt an ice queen, the fire might consume you.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Crazy or Genius?</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Jeremy Scott, F/W 2012, NY</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The most daring show was definitely Jeremy Scott's. References to pop art and 90's kitsch (think Koonz) were present. If I had to put a label on it, it would be 'candy punk', were the chaotic build up was placed next to candy cane colors. The craziness in the styling made for an even more theatrical atmosphere. Despite all of that, the clothes were pretty wearable when combined with other pieces.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Androgen beauty</b></span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM63AXfOcRY775r4K2w6bm48kQidZPow-QulwDzODoFjPT1kPtrI5DeaDBccdtLRRfdljQXjJ3J2oFs6MsO5jwWM2BNGbD5EgJQL2DvGhikeJ_nLp-IqlaLKCGI52iFMV189lFDPADWwbn/s1600/proenza4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM63AXfOcRY775r4K2w6bm48kQidZPow-QulwDzODoFjPT1kPtrI5DeaDBccdtLRRfdljQXjJ3J2oFs6MsO5jwWM2BNGbD5EgJQL2DvGhikeJ_nLp-IqlaLKCGI52iFMV189lFDPADWwbn/s400/proenza4.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Proenza Schouler, F/W 2012, NY</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Even though the designer duo at Proenza Schouler consists of two male designers, they don't oversexualize women. The female is a strong femme fatale who knows what she wants and isn't afraid to ask for it. Both male and female get a righteous place in this collection.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Printilicious</b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Michael Angel, F/W 2012, NY</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Master of digital prints, Michael Angel has further established his unique approach to fashion in this collection. His prints are interesting and very different than those of his contemporaries. Symmetry is no taboo in the organic design. Colors go from greys to vibrant blue and green.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Next up: Milan, London, Paris!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-50497046741675927682012-02-10T11:44:00.000+01:002012-02-12T21:52:21.263+01:00Just Antony<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Approximately 14 years ago</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"> 'Antony and the Johnsons' was born</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">. A band build up around the person of Antony Hegarty. Often referred to as just 'Antony', the British singer who has lived a good part of his live in the U.S.A. has become a concept in the alternative music scene</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">. Not only his incredible voice but also his unrelenting generosity in lending its unique sound to other artists has contributed to his fame. </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Collaborations with other musicians are indeed numerous. Lou Reed, Björk, Rufus Wainwright, Boy George, Hercules and love affair, Joan as police woman and Marianne Faithfull are some of the artists who he worked with. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Next to these musical collaborations, he also conceived some soundtracks for movies.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>V for Vendetta</i>, a 2005 movie by James McTeigue, featured 'Bird gehrl'. For the biographical picture about the life of Bob Dylan <i>I'm not there</i>, he did a cover of the famous 'Knocking on Heaven's door'.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"> A couple of times, he even made a movie appearance. Once in <i>Animal Farm</i> by Steve Buscemi, singing 'Rapture' and once in <i>Wild Side</i> by <span style="line-height: 16px; text-align: left;">Sébastien Lifshitz</span> singing 'I fell in love with a Dead boy'.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Antony & the Johnsons, 'I fell in love with a Dead Boy', Wild Side, 2004</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Antony Hegarty's transgender sexuality and his eccentric appearance have been subject to both criticism and awe. He has emerged as a symbol and protagonist for the free experience of sexuality. Antony speaks not only to the transsexual and gay community but to everyone who experiences sexuality and identity 'differently'. He encourages a tolerant view on the world. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Respect for femininity, but also transformation, death and (destructive) love are themes that often emerge in his music. 'Cripple And The Starfish', my personal favorite, accurately portrays the emotions lived through in an abusive relationship.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Antony and the Johnsons with Metropole Orchestra, Cripple and the Starfish, Amsterdam 2009</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Antony and the Johnsons' oeuvre is quite limited, w</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">ith only four lp's in their name. The first album carried the name of the band and didn't get too much publicity, although it's my favorite. The release of their second album 'I'm a Bird Now' in 2005 got them the Mercury Prize.</span> <br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">In 2009 his third album 'The Crying Light' rose to the first place on the European charts. A lot of the songs are a comment on the critical condition the earth is in. For example, 'Another World' can be seen as a cry for a global change in the attitude towards and the preservation of nature.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Antony and the Johnsons with Metropole Orchestra, Another World, Amsterdam 2009</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Like his presentation on stage and his voice, his musical compositions are very theatrical. The abundant use of strings and changes in pace and volume make for some dramatic moments. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Antony's interests extend beyond the mere realm of music. </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">In 2008 he wrote a song to accompany the collection of Prada during the season's show. A year before that he</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"> collaborated with one of my other favorites, Hussein Chalayan, for the making of a 'fashion film' called 'Readings' for the Paris fashion week.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Music: Antony Hegarty, Fashion: Hussein Chalayan, Video: Antony & Nick Night, 'Readings', 2007</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The shattered and fragmented nature of the music could have inspired him for the last album that came out in 2010, Swanlights. The title song on this album has a likeness to the composition for 'Readings'.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Antony & the Johnsons, 'Swanlight', 2010</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">To me not only Antony's music but his whole persona touches on subjects that are important and often overlooked in this society: The soft, tender, vulnerable, feminine side of society: The undefined, the vague, the non-judgmental. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">He proves that rebellion, protest and change don't have to go hand in hand with violence or aggression. He's a martyr, not male, not female, just human.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1964046329"><br /></a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br /><a href="http://player.omroep.nl/?aflID=9704633" target="_blank">Antony in concert with Metropole Orchestra</a></span><br />
<a href="http://antonyandthejohnsons.com/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Antony & the Johnsons</span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><br /></span>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-35922399067545097082012-01-24T19:25:00.000+01:002012-01-25T00:00:13.049+01:00La Nouvelle Haute Couture<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This week Paris is host to some of the most exclusive and eagerly awaited fashion shows of the season. During the Couture week, a selected group of fashion empires show their Couture collection to the cream of the crop: celebrities, royalty and of course the international press. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">For a couple of days, the fashion world becomes even more exclusive than it already is. Yesterday the three days of haute couture madness were kicked off by the house of Versace. There will be a total of 23 shows, including Elie Saab, Valentino and Givenchy. Peanuts compared to the more than 80 ready-to-wear shows that were held in Paris a couple <span style="background-color: white;">of months ago.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="hps">You could say that t</span><span class="hps">he structure of</span> <span class="hps">the fashion industry</span> is in essence a pyramid, with haute couture making out the highest order. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">The difference with ready-to-wear is that haute couture consists of</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">exclusive</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">garments</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">tailored</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">for</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">a</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">specific</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">customer</span><span style="background-color: white;">.</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">Often</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">the pieces</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">are </span><span style="background-color: white;"></span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">made</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">in luxurious and</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">expensive materials, but more importantly, they are entirely</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">handmade</span><span style="background-color: white;">.</span><span style="background-color: white;"> Minute d</span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">etailing</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">and</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">the use of time</span><span class="" style="background-color: white;">-consuming</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">techniques</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">are also often employed in Haute Couture ateliers. '</span><span style="background-color: white;">Haute</span><span style="background-color: white;"> C</span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">outure'</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">is</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">a legally</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">protected term</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">in France</span><span style="background-color: white;">,</span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;"> which can only be used</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">by selected</span><span style="background-color: white;"> brands</span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;"> that </span><span style="background-color: white;"></span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">meet</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">certain quality</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">standards</span><span style="background-color: white;">.</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">The official</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps atn" style="background-color: white;">"</span><span style="background-color: white;">Chambre</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">Syndicale</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">de la</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">Haute</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">Couture</span><span style="background-color: white;">"</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">currently has</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">thirty</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><span class="hps" style="background-color: white;">members.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Yesterday,
before his show, Giambattista Valli told the press he wants to have the Haute
Couture ateliers be made Unesco World Heritage. It hasn't come to that yet, but
in a society where a growing percentage of people are anxious to preserve
tradition, whether it be material or intangible, who knows?</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This season Haute Couture takes on a modern form. In the collection of Bouchra Jarrar for example. She effortlessly combines materials and different worlds in wearable pieces. It's the ultimate luxury for the woman of today: unique clothing that is practical and made for an urban setting. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT-4ZpvEi59MdJXwtk0-8WdJirYZ9kLCYQnLGZ-cJ3bcNFKrgxosCjzNcMpCgwzrNcwKyjz8PPLQqXHPsVa7ZTJYPJKwL4FkhlIvEndpiVx4SxAlebH4YGh5jDhwZjfx99bNSrhxf6BjJ0/s1600/Bouchra+Jarrar4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT-4ZpvEi59MdJXwtk0-8WdJirYZ9kLCYQnLGZ-cJ3bcNFKrgxosCjzNcMpCgwzrNcwKyjz8PPLQqXHPsVa7ZTJYPJKwL4FkhlIvEndpiVx4SxAlebH4YGh5jDhwZjfx99bNSrhxf6BjJ0/s400/Bouchra+Jarrar4.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bouchra Jarrar, Spring 2012 Couture<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">Alexis Mabille uses colour and plastic-like materials to create an otherworldly show. </span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOTABXmYEHbQzM2ZaE_AyWf6j8otg3Mq0zmpbEqGUmaY6m_U40gnwAv5bcBi3RY61KXtXzOXpY0zwR69tplPsHXwloo0k1v-8iEeMb8JBWpfKQbpLNzIQ8Js6NRT0E6L9mX_FzpnFqts6S/s1600/mabillle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOTABXmYEHbQzM2ZaE_AyWf6j8otg3Mq0zmpbEqGUmaY6m_U40gnwAv5bcBi3RY61KXtXzOXpY0zwR69tplPsHXwloo0k1v-8iEeMb8JBWpfKQbpLNzIQ8Js6NRT0E6L9mX_FzpnFqts6S/s400/mabillle.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexis Mabille, Spring 2012 Couture</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">The two collections above stray far from the traditional Couture esthetic. The latter can be found in the collection of Versace, since long an important voice in the world of Haute Couture.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUT2c1OicM6b7_c_6QiSAmx3-dy8JARaXCllQxoT_3KIkn9jehUr3DONI78zG9dbaDhEOOGS3o9s3kd5A0vqqGMbncCC5hQsyVLWnohy9hVCmbAoKzKzMEUjYV4WWU_IpYnKMNUCq_3uUM/s1600/versace2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUT2c1OicM6b7_c_6QiSAmx3-dy8JARaXCllQxoT_3KIkn9jehUr3DONI78zG9dbaDhEOOGS3o9s3kd5A0vqqGMbncCC5hQsyVLWnohy9hVCmbAoKzKzMEUjYV4WWU_IpYnKMNUCq_3uUM/s400/versace2.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Versace, Spring 2012 Couture</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Although I'm not a fan of the styling, the dresses do bring a surprising mix of Hollywood glamour and warrior influences.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A marriage between tradition and modernity, that's the way some designers are looking at the Haute Couture phenomenon these days. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The layered constructions of Bill Gaytten for Dior have a fifties feel, but the sheerness and unfinished semblance of the clothing is very now.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dior, Spring 2012 Couture</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Giambattista Valli on the other hand makes use of the craftsmanship so specific to Haute Couture in a way that looks timeless: neither historical, nor futuristic.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giambattista Valli, Spring 2012 Couture</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Chanel lays down a very youthful and rebellious look with the help of a punk inspired styling. But the clothes themselves are modern of cut and lend the somewhat antiquated tweed suit an almost, selfmade, disposable air.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chanel, Spring 2012 Couture</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Haute Couture doesn't have to be a distant elitist fragment of the fashion world.</span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It shows the endless possibilities of fabrics and ensures the passing on of the metier. </span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Most importantly ... it encourages to dream.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span></div>
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: whitesmoke;"></span></span>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-84461244154846922152012-01-12T19:33:00.002+01:002013-04-18T09:54:22.131+02:00Genius Teaches Genius<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A lot of geniuses have died 'before their time'. </span><i style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Before their time, </i><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I've always found that expression extremely unsettling</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">. Does everybody have an expiration date tattooed behind their ear or stamped on the sole of their foot? If so, how come that particular date is only known for people who are no longer here and rarely coincides with the real date of their departure?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Egon Schiele, Janis Joplin, Emily Brontë, Arthur Rimbaud, Ian Curtis, it's just a small excerpt of a long list of artists who died at a young age. The question I ask myself is, what magnificent poems, drawings, music never came to exist because of the untimely death of these exceptional creators?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The same question can be asked about Alexander McQueen who died in February of 2010. When the word of McQueen's death reached the world, the fashion community reacted with disbelief and grief. At only forty years old the British designer took his own life after lived through some personal tragedies like the death of his mother and that of his close friend Isabella Blow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">McQueen had always been a rebel which earned him the name of 'l'enfant terrible' of the fashion world. </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Some of his designs were very extravagant, but ultimately his exquisite tailoring, original use of fabric and genius detailing were responsible for his fame and success. </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In 1996 he succeeded Galliano as art director at Givenchy, a job he executed until 2001.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexander McQueen, Spring/Summer 2006<br />
Dress made out of real flowers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexander McQueen, Fall/Winter 2009<br />
Dress made out of feathers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexander McQueen, Spring/Summer 2010</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Posthumous exhibition 'Savage Beauty' held by the Metropolitan Museum in New York was a huge success and attracted a lot of visitors.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">During the fashion week of October 2010, all the eyes were directed to one woman: Sarah Burton. Since long McQueen's right hand, she would carry on the vision of the house. Due to the almost godlike status McQueen had acquired disappointing the critics would have been easier than counting to ten, but to everybody's surprise the quiet and hard working Burton revealed herself to be the perfect successor.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRZQbTRqpH_-aiN9FJbqFXANcLGirUyMmyhOUc8ttQHYLa_Xct0irw134WNLcuvt2OOVoWkZdPMflUClta5LZ3WNoo3GfsmDHtosU5fyr6UuWTLW-HrFwuV2NEUuWLW4EatuJviKKA3qV/s1600/mcqueen_rtw_oct_2010_035_163626446882.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRZQbTRqpH_-aiN9FJbqFXANcLGirUyMmyhOUc8ttQHYLa_Xct0irw134WNLcuvt2OOVoWkZdPMflUClta5LZ3WNoo3GfsmDHtosU5fyr6UuWTLW-HrFwuV2NEUuWLW4EatuJviKKA3qV/s640/mcqueen_rtw_oct_2010_035_163626446882.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexander McQueen, Spring/Summer 2011</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">To me not only did Sarah Burton continue the unique McQueen feel, but she also added a subtle feminine sensibility that I thought was sometimes lacking in McQueen's designs. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I know this could be considered heresy to McQueen fans. I apologize in advance and </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I won't claim that this isn't just my humble opinion.</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Somehow I often have a preference for female designers and this case is no different.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Compare some of McQueen's last designs to some of Burton's and judge for yourself.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">left: McQueen's last collection, Fall/Winter 2010 </span> <br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">right: Sarah Burton, Spring/Summer 2011 and 2012</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The new Spring/summer 2012 collection blew me away. Burton was inspired by the ocean. Think nymphs, corals, waves,..</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGPEupeVkaAWIZ05XhzlvCfshLFf7bCiyp6xpMF-qF5g84vmyeuQflgkhb41FeQUhp9HzXV3AALPkJ2JWOn2T-_YujA8siJvWAu3TVZY0OzE_Gub2TpcA6SuqdMn12mX85eroJc7iaAVYq/s1600/00300m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGPEupeVkaAWIZ05XhzlvCfshLFf7bCiyp6xpMF-qF5g84vmyeuQflgkhb41FeQUhp9HzXV3AALPkJ2JWOn2T-_YujA8siJvWAu3TVZY0OzE_Gub2TpcA6SuqdMn12mX85eroJc7iaAVYq/s640/00300m.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexander McQueen, Spring/Summer 2012</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The style and craftsmanship Sarah Burton has developed is deeply in debt to her teacher Alexander McQueen, but to me she has perfected his art. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Isn't that the greatest gift you can give someone? McQueen's brand will not only exist, but most importantly be alive and continue evolving.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Indeed a teacher is someone who renders himself progressively unnecessary. McQueen did this in the most dramatic and tragic way.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sarah Burton</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alexander 'Lee' McQueen</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.alexandermcqueen.com/" target="_blank">http://www.alexandermcqueen.com/</a></span></div>
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fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-38923287586633471952012-01-05T15:11:00.000+01:002012-01-05T15:24:03.194+01:00Madonna of Life and Death: Nathalia Edenmont<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The nice thing about big cities is that you can stumble upon hidden treasures every time you turn a corner. True, you can also fall into the clutches of a criminal gang or step in droppings of a not discernable animal, but even if those things would happen to me, I would forget them easily because of all the unexpected, wonderful things that could have happened. I am rarely this positive, so it's safe to say that I'm a metropolis enthusiast.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A perfect example of why I love cities is the trip I took last week with a friend of mine. We drove to Paris (more specifically, we sat in a car being driven) and had one day to take in the atmosphere, visit some expositions and catch up on each other's lives.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Trying to avoid big lines and touristy places we unintendedly ended up in the gallery district of le Marais. There we discovered some interesting artists. One exposition in particular really moved me because of its affinity with art history and textiles. Nathalia Edenmont (°1970) is a photographer born in Ukraine. She went to school in Stockholm after she was orphaned.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nathalia Edenmont, <i>Self</i> p<i>ortrait</i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The color of this work really struck me and instantly reminded me of the fifteenth century paintings of Jan Van Eyck, which I adore.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jan Van Eyck, <i>Madonna with the Child reading</i>, 1433</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Nathalia Edenmont positions herself in the center of the picture. Her pose and robe are iconic for the Madonna theme found often in classical painting. In place of the baby Jesus she holds a rabbit as if it were a hand puppet. An allusion on the manipulation in religion? Or maybe it signifies the historical power of women, the kind of power that's not visible but was always hiding behind a male actor.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Edenmont often refers to art history in her photographs, sometimes more literal, like in this portrait of a man, were she comments on the gender problem by replacing the Maya of Goya with a male model.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQoLUXstk5M/TwWdthroBgI/AAAAAAAAAcE/LqDse7iWZQk/s1600/1331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="315" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQoLUXstk5M/TwWdthroBgI/AAAAAAAAAcE/LqDse7iWZQk/s400/1331.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nathalia Edenmont, <i>Portrait</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVhUOn1kIpo/TwWghFQ-i1I/AAAAAAAAAcQ/Sasd6e5GgGk/s1600/Goya+naked+maja.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="260" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVhUOn1kIpo/TwWghFQ-i1I/AAAAAAAAAcQ/Sasd6e5GgGk/s400/Goya+naked+maja.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goya, <i>The Naked Maja</i>, 1800-1803</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Or in another portrait based on Velazquez' <i>Venus at her mirror, </i>where she has placed her model on a shabby bed without any mattress or covers. The naked body is fragile and cold, not surrounded by luxury as with Velazquez' painting.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WVGm3so99ac/TwWgr2da8FI/AAAAAAAAAcc/aUGpj962IQ0/s1600/nathalia+edenmont.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WVGm3so99ac/TwWgr2da8FI/AAAAAAAAAcc/aUGpj962IQ0/s400/nathalia+edenmont.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nathalia Edenmont, <i>Portrait</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l1kROAOObyE/TwWhXwhX3hI/AAAAAAAAAco/y1WrUIaWAjU/s1600/Vel%25C3%25A1zquez_Venus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="271" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l1kROAOObyE/TwWhXwhX3hI/AAAAAAAAAco/y1WrUIaWAjU/s400/Vel%25C3%25A1zquez_Venus.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diego Velazquez, <i>Venus at her Mirror</i>, 1650</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Louise Bossut, a Belgian photographer has also touched this subject, but puts the body in a sleeping position. The white sheets give an eerie feel because of the connection with shrouds.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h7TjOPY1cdI/TwWhYrv9ViI/AAAAAAAAAcs/105Fk8hiSWE/s1600/bossutvenus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="198" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h7TjOPY1cdI/TwWhYrv9ViI/AAAAAAAAAcs/105Fk8hiSWE/s400/bossutvenus.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Louise Bossut, <i>Portrait</i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The two photographers have some other projects in common, like modern variations on the Madonna with child theme.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7DmkTV_bmH8/TwWlGJckvXI/AAAAAAAAAdE/9KneNvuwhKE/s1600/wetterling_gallery_1-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7DmkTV_bmH8/TwWlGJckvXI/AAAAAAAAAdE/9KneNvuwhKE/s400/wetterling_gallery_1-1.jpg" width="317" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dcoKGKA3gdI/TwWlFRX_vrI/AAAAAAAAAc8/OfHfIgMM6wM/s1600/Unborn-2_661869c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dcoKGKA3gdI/TwWlFRX_vrI/AAAAAAAAAc8/OfHfIgMM6wM/s400/Unborn-2_661869c.jpg" width="311" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nathalia Edenmont</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bg_DQaeeKpY/TwWlfeWfshI/AAAAAAAAAdM/CVONnOI6seg/s1600/Ceysson_Bossut_Madone_web.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bg_DQaeeKpY/TwWlfeWfshI/AAAAAAAAAdM/CVONnOI6seg/s400/Ceysson_Bossut_Madone_web.gif" width="318" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Louise Bossut</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Edenmont's view is more raw and at the same time more staged. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Fashion and textile are very important in her work. In Paris I saw some compositions, made wholly out of butterfly wings. The colors and construction were marvelous. It's almost a textile design and I could see this being used as a print on fabric.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uaJ0ZUU--CM/TwWmo4bOBbI/AAAAAAAAAdY/2-2oMdXpgH0/s1600/691085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="628" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uaJ0ZUU--CM/TwWmo4bOBbI/AAAAAAAAAdY/2-2oMdXpgH0/s640/691085.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nathalia Edenmont</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">References to historical clothing also appear in her photographs.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l1UWSLVBEGU/TwWoDema-LI/AAAAAAAAAeA/ru78DXaGoNo/s1600/charles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l1UWSLVBEGU/TwWoDema-LI/AAAAAAAAAeA/ru78DXaGoNo/s400/charles.jpg" width="398" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nathalia Edenmont</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yhD1VKgODMA/TwWoEFVBnSI/AAAAAAAAAeI/F5mglRTQlGQ/s1600/Portrait-of-a-Man-Holding-a-Skull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yhD1VKgODMA/TwWoEFVBnSI/AAAAAAAAAeI/F5mglRTQlGQ/s400/Portrait-of-a-Man-Holding-a-Skull.jpg" width="306" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frans Hals, <i>Portrait of a Man holding a Skull</i>, 1610</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The skull on Hals' Painting is a so called vanitas motif. It reminds the observer of the fleeting time and the vanity of life. Edenmont's work also holds a lot of references to death, which could have the same goal.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LQ6STn8F7d8/TwWqdxJuRkI/AAAAAAAAAeU/pzpaPsS3l-M/s1600/nathalia-edenmont.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="338" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LQ6STn8F7d8/TwWqdxJuRkI/AAAAAAAAAeU/pzpaPsS3l-M/s400/nathalia-edenmont.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F5eXYeboq-Q/TwWqej6v1eI/AAAAAAAAAec/rKnnYi_fK4I/s1600/rsz_5493750088_2495d48a03_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F5eXYeboq-Q/TwWqej6v1eI/AAAAAAAAAec/rKnnYi_fK4I/s400/rsz_5493750088_2495d48a03_b.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nathalia Edenmont</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It's important to be aware of the temporary nature of life, it helps you to live in the moment en experience it as a unique opportunity. We often forget that the things that make life wonderful aren't the things we might want, but the things we already have. So enjoy!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.wasapix.com/2011/10/26/selected-works-nathalia-edenmont-wetterlinggallery-com/" target="_blank">Nathalia Edenmont</a>, 'Existence' in L'</span><a href="http://www.si.se/Paris/Francais/Institut-suedois-a-Paris/Agenda/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;" target="_blank">Institut Suédois</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">, Paris </span></div>
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</div>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-79112356626095402172011-12-28T23:43:00.000+01:002012-01-04T22:24:55.128+01:00Ceremonials, Chanel and 007<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">'Ceremonials': rituals, history, rites. </span>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Florence and The Machine's new album explores these subjects on a very personal and individual level. T</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">he long awaited </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">discovery of the self doesn't happen but is close and lurking in the shadows. </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The music on this album is more symphonic and melodic than that of the first record 'Lungs'.</span><i style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </i><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Inspiration was taken from sounds of church bells, harps, gospel beats</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> and choirs. A spiritual if not religious record you would think, but 'Ceremonials' is more than that. The songs dig into the essential human fears and concerns. There's no threat from the outside, the evil comes from within. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I feel very connected with the song 'Breaking down'. To me it's about nightmares and the terror I sometimes experience when I can't tell the difference between reality and dream.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">'Never let me go' deals, not with a desire to self-destruct, but with the longing to </span><i style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">self-dissolve</i><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">. No aggression, no fight, </span><i style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">no giving up, just giving in.</i><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Not all is dark on 'Ceremonials', there are also some great up beat tracks, like 'Leave my Body', 'shake it Out' and 'Spectrum (Say My Name)'. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This last video brings me to the exquisite fashion taste of front lady Florence Welch. You can easily see that her passion for music is accompanied by a passion for clothing. Her style is very specific and to me is a mix of Victorian, Art Nouveau and garconne.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wJgd_ydXBhg/TvuOGaMcflI/AAAAAAAAAXI/M2RdJrvMqI4/s1600/florence---the-machine17815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wJgd_ydXBhg/TvuOGaMcflI/AAAAAAAAAXI/M2RdJrvMqI4/s320/florence---the-machine17815.jpg" width="242" /></a></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MWC0_cbV92o/TvuH10MYMSI/AAAAAAAAAVY/M0iNlUKyS6c/s1600/Florence-Welch-Interview-Magazine-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MWC0_cbV92o/TvuH10MYMSI/AAAAAAAAAVY/M0iNlUKyS6c/s320/Florence-Welch-Interview-Magazine-4.jpg" width="242" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B83uGTQ541g/TvuKRi62Z8I/AAAAAAAAAWs/9tPRu9QM5mI/s1600/florence-welch-2011-grammys-05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B83uGTQ541g/TvuKRi62Z8I/AAAAAAAAAWs/9tPRu9QM5mI/s400/florence-welch-2011-grammys-05.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Florence herself claims that women like Stevie Nicks and Francoise Hardy have formed her fashion sense. I especially love her suits and long dresses.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">During the last couple of years Welch has revealed herself to be a muse to some of the greatest fashion designers of our time. She inspired the Gucci fall/winter 2011 line.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gucci FW 2011</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Notice the hats, long dresses and accentuated lips.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">For her 2011 tour, Gucci even provided her outfits. Florence Welch has gradually acquired quite an expensive taste.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This fall she even took on an important role in the most awaited fashionshow of the Paris Fashion Week. For the Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 collection, she performed 'What the Water Gave Me'. The song matched the water themed dresses perfectly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">For the limited edition of her vinyl single 'Shake it Out', Karl Lagerfeld, creative director for Chanel and noted photographer, dressed Florence in his creations and took the pictures that adorned the cover.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karl Lagerfeld for Florence and the Machine 'Shake it Out' 2011</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">For Christmas eve I ventured a Florence inspired outfit on a slightly tighter budget.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden Oversized Top: Massimo Dutti<br />
Golden Bracelet: Family Vintage (thx Mami)<br />
Long Sheer Skirt: H&M<br />
Boots: De la Bretonnière<br />
Golden Socks: Massimo Dutti</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faux-fur Hat: H&M (Christmas Gift from my sister)<br />
Fur Coat: Lucky Find: Abandoned on streets</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Our new year's eve party is themed 'Bond, 007'. I think this outfit also has a Bond girl appeal to it, so I'll just recycle it. Isn't that economical of me?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Tomorrow I'm off to Paris for a one day exposition extravaganza thanks to one of my best pals! I wish you all an overdue Merry Christmas and an early Happy New Year!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://florenceandthemachine.net/"><span style="font-size: x-small;">http://florenceandthemachine.net/</span></a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-48019316263528649702011-12-20T11:56:00.000+01:002012-01-04T22:19:48.657+01:00Unique Uniformity: Fréger and Fashion<br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Clothing. It protects us from the elements. It covers our nudity, which reminds us too much of our descent of apes. It makes us clearer, more definable to our fellow men. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This last function is where uniforms come into view.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The paradox of the uniform is twofold. First of all: The uniformity of the outer shell of a collection of people has one goal: to suppress individuality, to make clear that 'this' is one group, whether it be social, physical, bound by class, age or a common goal. But it's clear that everybody enters this world alone and for the rest of his life is trapped in his/her body and mind. You can never grasp what it must be like to be somebody else, however empathic you are. Second: the uniform is used to create objectivity and clarity but often spreads insecurity and doubt in the minds of those enslaved to its shackles. Disposed of a unique appearance, a person can go both ways: experiencing a calming sensation that one is amongst like-minded people and is part of the right path or feeling the blow of being bereft of his personality.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In a sense every fashion utterance is a kind of uniformity, an obedience to laws that get imposed by the commercial fashion world. That's why people who color outside the lines make such an impact on the world. Think of artists like Baudelaire, Salvador Dali or Frida Kahlo. Think of designers like Coco Chanel, Vivienne Westwood or Alexander McQueen. Think of fashion bloggers and exentrics like Isabella Blow, Anna dello Russo or Tavi Gevinson. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Someone who, in my opinion, captured the essence of the uniform is French photographer Charles Fréger (°1975). I came in contact with his work through a workshop I attended during my internship in the museum for photography of Antwerp. I also had the privilege to get to know the artist a bit during his stay in Belgium. An interesting man he is! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">His work focuses on the human condition. A lot of his photographs are done in series. Each series depict a social group. Uniforms play an important visual role in his art.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJjR5MhyrKeYahxuTJx9DPZZIcpOHXeS9Vkd0qwpVLknbBwVkEaE5WLHEBCi6bOJdDqnpcTNuj5QTJZkXbKk0E9lM9-vCnDhoSA_6doG4pXILDsvTnCdzMltrohhWZrUlhll7awuXcfXSH/s1600/DSC03238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJjR5MhyrKeYahxuTJx9DPZZIcpOHXeS9Vkd0qwpVLknbBwVkEaE5WLHEBCi6bOJdDqnpcTNuj5QTJZkXbKk0E9lM9-vCnDhoSA_6doG4pXILDsvTnCdzMltrohhWZrUlhll7awuXcfXSH/s400/DSC03238.JPG" width="295" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger, From the series <i>Portraits Photographiques et Uniformes, </i>2001 </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger, From the series <i>Portraits Photographiques et Uniformes, </i>2001
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger, From the series <i>Rikishi, </i>2005</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-B-Yt9SzVWErZbJ5vfG8l7scTZMt70ZJxRgubQ3ZnVa_iIn_b-Kgk9VUNzY4F_5D4fW7ymRy3Z1l9jIuy1OYHJpF0bEk39L85kiOPGEAu3OnF1RpErKxwEUCpsu_-XDOZ01I0PhRrDPe_/s1600/french+legionnaires+legion+djibouti+charles+freger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-B-Yt9SzVWErZbJ5vfG8l7scTZMt70ZJxRgubQ3ZnVa_iIn_b-Kgk9VUNzY4F_5D4fW7ymRy3Z1l9jIuy1OYHJpF0bEk39L85kiOPGEAu3OnF1RpErKxwEUCpsu_-XDOZ01I0PhRrDPe_/s320/french+legionnaires+legion+djibouti+charles+freger.jpg" width="242" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger, From the series <i>Légionnaires Portraits Photographiques et Uniformes, </i>2002
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKVjuUhll0XZ8Jp5iz69_dkmD_1CzerWuUzXFkkvSyWlOqgRaFP9n2UzgAe-rw_UYWUCcpqFQNqaqA_LuSH2wPrpKCn8VzMhuWfTXLx3Uo2heTwdN8QekcENpo9StARbLTmgVBdTz6u6eb/s1600/legio2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKVjuUhll0XZ8Jp5iz69_dkmD_1CzerWuUzXFkkvSyWlOqgRaFP9n2UzgAe-rw_UYWUCcpqFQNqaqA_LuSH2wPrpKCn8VzMhuWfTXLx3Uo2heTwdN8QekcENpo9StARbLTmgVBdTz6u6eb/s640/legio2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger, From the series <i>Légionnaires Portraits Photographiques et Uniformes, </i>2002
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJh6WpqShREJlVSvI4o2UiSmFAvvWAGvhuTRqJPbKncuv0q76cGebkcgUwg-dmJo9uLeq6hmAjmmkXYvCtDGMEZtEyu-gE-6ST_A43cgSi08gagg2bg9FvGIDvZjEiYYNJG6nG9bPyD1u/s1600/montage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="347" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJh6WpqShREJlVSvI4o2UiSmFAvvWAGvhuTRqJPbKncuv0q76cGebkcgUwg-dmJo9uLeq6hmAjmmkXYvCtDGMEZtEyu-gE-6ST_A43cgSi08gagg2bg9FvGIDvZjEiYYNJG6nG9bPyD1u/s400/montage.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger, From the series <i>Empires, </i>2010
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger, From the series <i>Empire, </i>2010 </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I know firsthand that Fréger has an immense respect for one of the most influential photographers of the 20th century, August Sander (1876-1964). This was a German photographer who proclaimed the 'Neue Sachligkeit' or 'New objectivity' as the standard for all photography. His detached approach resulted in a systematic portrait collection of the German people of his time. 'Menschen des 20 Jahrhunderts' or 'People of the 20th century' would become one of the most famous photographical oeuvres of all time. He divided the people by professions and social groups and captured them posing consciously before his camera.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">August Sander, From <i>Menschen des 20 Jahrhunderts, </i>1929</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">August Sander, From <i>Menschen des 20 Jahrhunderts, </i>1929
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">August Sander, From <i>Menschen des 20 Jahrhunderts, </i>1929
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDgWUpRXl4V1lX8nogS9rfskaKzng7TdplgxwyEO8SCB-h_UNeo0_7ri8hPYMj9XLI_P0MpwGUtpr4xPVh6jXFNg655FpIo8B3yvZ5tbu1g4rdBEXFOiTmUjuhCz1PYQDsG-vAb_lANJvP/s1600/august-sander-menschen-des-20-jahrhunderts-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDgWUpRXl4V1lX8nogS9rfskaKzng7TdplgxwyEO8SCB-h_UNeo0_7ri8hPYMj9XLI_P0MpwGUtpr4xPVh6jXFNg655FpIo8B3yvZ5tbu1g4rdBEXFOiTmUjuhCz1PYQDsG-vAb_lANJvP/s400/august-sander-menschen-des-20-jahrhunderts-2.jpg" width="291" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">August Sander, From <i>Menschen des 20 Jahrhunderts, </i>1929
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Fréger's work resembles Sander's in a couple of ways. The object is almost painfully aware of its representation of the self. People are separated in closed groups. Charles Fréger has an immensely vast oeuvre which brings to mind the hundreds of people Sander tried to archive. But in Fréger's oeuvre there's room for other facets of the individual portrayed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Compare the gestures of the people in these following photographs. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGb40F2bJkpv_HEP2sfAR8AjwOPb3S6wrftPA-2meXWqEBY339YZdbpckPr3VBn_LwnnqZqEVx3nMXH5Enzauio9l9WPx0j2BwAY8DJRENa7P1FlaPudOGxEs0xQkYOGmVC3r0kfdYyAEO/s1600/august-sander-chef.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGb40F2bJkpv_HEP2sfAR8AjwOPb3S6wrftPA-2meXWqEBY339YZdbpckPr3VBn_LwnnqZqEVx3nMXH5Enzauio9l9WPx0j2BwAY8DJRENa7P1FlaPudOGxEs0xQkYOGmVC3r0kfdYyAEO/s640/august-sander-chef.jpg" width="417" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">August Sander, From <i>Menschen des 20 Jahrhunderts, </i>1929
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQ3LbOVPsSUA-uhGzywiP6hzwlp9C4zki0dqY88beXHyesF8LVXp9G-Jvv_49fsxIaWfUPxxTYR2ZingpPNsJvF17ApPpbxZxuork8zIuyViujgqcKSXorS9JbLmjAT-tV3dsiUD-YLYf/s1600/MicheletSebastienBrasCprghtcooksCharlesFreger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQ3LbOVPsSUA-uhGzywiP6hzwlp9C4zki0dqY88beXHyesF8LVXp9G-Jvv_49fsxIaWfUPxxTYR2ZingpPNsJvF17ApPpbxZxuork8zIuyViujgqcKSXorS9JbLmjAT-tV3dsiUD-YLYf/s640/MicheletSebastienBrasCprghtcooksCharlesFreger.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger, <i>Portrait</i>, 2007</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Sander shows the cook during the exercise of his profession. The cooks on Frégers image display gestures specific to their respective personalities.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In this way he is a child of his postmodern time. Hyperindividuality is the norm, that's why uniforms are loosing ground in schools and professions. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">But not on the catwalk. Uniforms, not seldom military, have always influenced fashion designers. Most recent at the shows for the Spring/Summer 2012 collections.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0UDSjuB8hHQpUqIePv3N3vrAahNPoB6EiB4Qk4eDmGgZ4qllr4f4id1wM3bejgrH0vAz_lhRZEi27K_9fHIZ40CrLeVQIZNj6Vue1caszCMd0-_MTtn3Hr2Hu8O31tF_KqEieGeTrhZNj/s1600/Lacoste.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0UDSjuB8hHQpUqIePv3N3vrAahNPoB6EiB4Qk4eDmGgZ4qllr4f4id1wM3bejgrH0vAz_lhRZEi27K_9fHIZ40CrLeVQIZNj6Vue1caszCMd0-_MTtn3Hr2Hu8O31tF_KqEieGeTrhZNj/s400/Lacoste.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik3EM7sUqTUs6v-TUY1WgUpA8FnAy4KJrTiEMeOljCqQParN28RBIqLuS_NHikPtf7Ta0tqGzr14KL0TIut6eKJmw0k5wGmyUM6tFwyH3KxpGOKT_gvJHdUOESOlNiaZU79enwYccUpp12/s1600/Lacoste2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik3EM7sUqTUs6v-TUY1WgUpA8FnAy4KJrTiEMeOljCqQParN28RBIqLuS_NHikPtf7Ta0tqGzr14KL0TIut6eKJmw0k5wGmyUM6tFwyH3KxpGOKT_gvJHdUOESOlNiaZU79enwYccUpp12/s320/Lacoste2.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lacoste, S/S 2012</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3DLr9-gPQdLad6YlAEWteT4yT_JSiH1fXvpSTG8lvbLuyuCge8hH1np7qQ1d067A4VtS_wxiYzbmaqy4a2Q1YLAzjeBEG17ZhiPq-B4yNmCAneA6CbjH09Jk6eniI7QcXnUXKrLbLFDin/s1600/ackermann2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3DLr9-gPQdLad6YlAEWteT4yT_JSiH1fXvpSTG8lvbLuyuCge8hH1np7qQ1d067A4VtS_wxiYzbmaqy4a2Q1YLAzjeBEG17ZhiPq-B4yNmCAneA6CbjH09Jk6eniI7QcXnUXKrLbLFDin/s400/ackermann2.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI9u6_BgmZ_SrLRcSUy-wUn8nqsK_b2DFuH2x6AuxHobHndr1l7lYaR5MgcmU-i2t19WPyxOU2HsTByU3DGDSAL6jbXQuV-02SLlinucKxjlx1fsQvE9CcXS3MooX5nlVciKksBOhzGsW5/s1600/ackermann3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI9u6_BgmZ_SrLRcSUy-wUn8nqsK_b2DFuH2x6AuxHobHndr1l7lYaR5MgcmU-i2t19WPyxOU2HsTByU3DGDSAL6jbXQuV-02SLlinucKxjlx1fsQvE9CcXS3MooX5nlVciKksBOhzGsW5/s320/ackermann3.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haider Ackermann, S/S 2012</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Charles Fréger has also ventured out in the field of fashion. He's done some beautiful fashion spreads for magazines such as POP and Another Magazine.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikrF9iZBMIK7oq5vD_NlCtD3RkpZrifDuMKQv2Iz-b_zeU_CmVfwtJF0Au9ZOdkOY4TYa_BU6lhOm1mLbNOg3bjPbpWy_QCKK8sBonEJx2ovjWdmrFlaUHxDwlAxSOw94Q-U3CpRi8v3ei/s1600/another+magazine+freger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikrF9iZBMIK7oq5vD_NlCtD3RkpZrifDuMKQv2Iz-b_zeU_CmVfwtJF0Au9ZOdkOY4TYa_BU6lhOm1mLbNOg3bjPbpWy_QCKK8sBonEJx2ovjWdmrFlaUHxDwlAxSOw94Q-U3CpRi8v3ei/s640/another+magazine+freger.jpg" width="488" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger for Another Magazine, 2010</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk0b6EglHlggsaw19iiPsUBiASbf_HKLfmz-T0PTAjRsNMuEgrHeXMDVIlCbF6FaT0T8LZDCyT378afRT5Ywg1ga0S_c_g2GlM40gGb37-JpKGTjiCXmDjyQ4F0YV3E2YcYSDbV82HA6U0/s1600/pop+magazine+freger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk0b6EglHlggsaw19iiPsUBiASbf_HKLfmz-T0PTAjRsNMuEgrHeXMDVIlCbF6FaT0T8LZDCyT378afRT5Ywg1ga0S_c_g2GlM40gGb37-JpKGTjiCXmDjyQ4F0YV3E2YcYSDbV82HA6U0/s640/pop+magazine+freger.jpg" width="491" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger for POP Magazine, 2010</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">His own projects even involve designing his own uniforms. He calls this project the 'Vis Voluntatis' and has designed a guard uniform, an iceskating uniform (an earlier venture in to the realm of designing) and even a Chinese Opera Costume.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger, 2007</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTTCHIns76Kjty__Z2W6l0x5pDuJjYBSNoVtGVm6Rr5mLYDT-H6wct4OdUcz-W-wqfWHSLkl1n3BJ4YNvBYbvtI4V-C1_Vws0INRd3cQW3JF7nYV_KOsbGwPCJuG87f3cdgLHbif20qMHE/s1600/Visvoluntatismosaiquewebownuniform.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTTCHIns76Kjty__Z2W6l0x5pDuJjYBSNoVtGVm6Rr5mLYDT-H6wct4OdUcz-W-wqfWHSLkl1n3BJ4YNvBYbvtI4V-C1_Vws0INRd3cQW3JF7nYV_KOsbGwPCJuG87f3cdgLHbif20qMHE/s640/Visvoluntatismosaiquewebownuniform.jpg" width="505" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Fréger, <i>Vis Voluntatis</i>, 2008</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Now if this isn't a successful crossing between art and fashion....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Have a lovely Christmas everyone, and wear something festive, be it a uniform or something more unique..</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.charlesfreger.com/">www.charlesfreger.com</a></span></div>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-5092856935290829252011-12-13T14:23:00.000+01:002011-12-13T14:32:08.710+01:00Which Fashion Reader Are You?<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">During the last few weeks I've become a real web-freak! Not only did I start blogging, but I went all out by registering this blog on facebook, twitter, bloglovin, google+... You can follow it on all those websites (do it, do it!). I even purchased a smartphone after abandoning my old nokia phone on the train. I can only use the web services when I'm at home or wherever there's a hotspot available, because I can't afford the expensive subscription! And that's a good thing, because otherwise, according to regular standards, my online-time would officially be labeled 'highly concerning'.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">All these amazing interactive applications on the interwebs aside, there are still some paper sources of information worth looking in to. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I've always had a soft spot for the smell of new books, but nothing beats a sniff of a newly printed un-thumbed fashion magazine. Even if websites and blogs included this particular smell, it wouldn't amount to the possibilities that magazines give you. I keep ALL of them. I leave them about the house until they're well over their expiration date. Then I stack them wherever there's room: In boxes, under cabinets and closets and finally, causing sounds of protest from my (otherwise magnificent) boyfriend, under the bed. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">So here are my 7 favorite fashion reads out of all the ones I've tried. They're all available at the better newsagent's (a bit of searching required). There's something for everyone! </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Harper's Bazaar</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCxGXXsj8L20N56mN2PxgOHKeV2zd35SSZ5iBD7XESqIqRaQyd0f3GxRYEp1kYMMma1m9uLydJkBNHD3XB4tBE10UCo1BKmLr5hXLiHtFKzuzfmW65xG2ge7Ra-88s073CqSvOkI4djKp/s1600/DSC09627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCxGXXsj8L20N56mN2PxgOHKeV2zd35SSZ5iBD7XESqIqRaQyd0f3GxRYEp1kYMMma1m9uLydJkBNHD3XB4tBE10UCo1BKmLr5hXLiHtFKzuzfmW65xG2ge7Ra-88s073CqSvOkI4djKp/s320/DSC09627.JPG" width="320" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Since</b>: 1867 (American)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Language</b>: English</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Periodicity</b>: Monthly</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Price</b>: € 7 </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>What?</b>: First American fashionmagazine ever!</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>+</b>: *Photographs by some of the best photographers in the world</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* Not only fashion: lifestyle, photography and literature</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* Interesting interviews with celebs</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>-</b>: * A lot of advertizing</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> * At times a bit elitist</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> <b>For:</b> The Worldly Woman</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b> Link</b>: <a href="http://www.harpersbazaar.com/">Harper's Bazaar</a></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Vogue Collections</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBOpmH8Vurp6alWA4nutgGKKX_w3kdU_aKXNWgkWDVXtI2iIFgOWhoB6DLX95aQ8yloYpIX3yAPI-0DBdI-3I8zxkKYqcgs-KXYpKd7DDbE9uXsyBWzB0N-IMo7wabNBCpznoAVUHTwHZ/s1600/DSC09632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBOpmH8Vurp6alWA4nutgGKKX_w3kdU_aKXNWgkWDVXtI2iIFgOWhoB6DLX95aQ8yloYpIX3yAPI-0DBdI-3I8zxkKYqcgs-KXYpKd7DDbE9uXsyBWzB0N-IMo7wabNBCpznoAVUHTwHZ/s320/DSC09632.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Since: </b>2006 (French)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Language: </b>French and English</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Periodicity: </b>Bi-annually</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Price: </b>€ 30</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>What?: </b>EVERY collection that makes the runway in Paris, Milan, New York and London</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>+: </b>-<b> </b>Aaaaaahhhhh It's Amazing!!!!!!!</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">- Tens of silhouettes from each collection: A lot of colour images</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">- Small review included with most of the pictures</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>-: </b>- The price, but it's well worth the 350 pages!</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>For: </b>The Fashion Intrigued Collectioneur</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Link: </b><a href="http://www.vogue.fr/">Vogue</a></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Lula</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8YuM9x6lfJ84Wf62Ryv7Zk8cRZyxFwHs_U1KOf2OICj0zjQJC5Uvv6vc6aEF13pf7G61AQJ0GLYvvHQH4DMhmdbKUDj182lLTf7DWOd6R8vgC1RlztAuCquNEyZGyTjBhTuXblSRIt4aK/s1600/DSC09636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8YuM9x6lfJ84Wf62Ryv7Zk8cRZyxFwHs_U1KOf2OICj0zjQJC5Uvv6vc6aEF13pf7G61AQJ0GLYvvHQH4DMhmdbKUDj182lLTf7DWOd6R8vgC1RlztAuCquNEyZGyTjBhTuXblSRIt4aK/s320/DSC09636.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<b> </b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Since:</b> 2005 (British)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Language: </b>English</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Periodicity: </b>Bi-annually</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Price: </b>€ 15</span><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">What?:</span></b><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>+: </b>* Very nice photography with a Vintage Feel</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* A lot of content</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* Interviews with artists</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>-: </b>* It can get a bit too whimsical</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>For: </b>The Dreamy and Romantic Fashionista</span><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Link: <a href="http://lulamag.com/">Lula</a></span></b><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Numéro</b></span><br />
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<b style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Since: </b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1998 (International)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Language: </b>French (limited translation in English)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Periodicity: </b>two-monthly / monthly</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Price: </b>€ 12</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>What?: </b>High Fashion magazine with short articles about art and fashion</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>+: </b>* Amazing fashion photography</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* Interesting Articles</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* Innovative Lay Out</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>-: </b>* Language limites audience, but still worth it for images</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>For: </b>The<b> </b>High Brow Fashion Follower</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Link:<a href="http://www.numero-magazine.com/">Numéro</a></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>I-D</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b> Since: </b>1980 (British)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Language: </b>English</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Periodicity: </b>Monthly</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Price: </b>€ 15</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>What?: </b>Fashion, Youth Culture and Street Style Magazine</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>+: </b>* Innovative on a lot of fronts like photography, typography, fashion</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>-: </b>* Focus on a relatively young audience (20 something)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>For: </b>The Edgy Hipster</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Link: <a href="http://i-donline.com/">I-D</a></b></span><br />
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large;">L'Officiel </span></b><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Since: </b>1921<b> </b>(French)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Language: </b>French (fr), Dutch (nl+be)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Periodicity: </b>Monthly</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Price: </b>€ 3,95 (nl and be), € 7 (fr)</span><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">What?:</span></b><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>+: </b>* Available in Dutch</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* Very Accessible: content and availability</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* Lovely editorials</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>-: </b>* Advertizing</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">*Sometimes a bit commercial</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>For: </b>The Fashion loving Shopaholic </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Link: <a href="http://lofficielmagazine.nl/">L' Officiel NL</a></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Glass</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Since: </b>? (British)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Language: </b>English</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Periodicity: </b>Bi-annually</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Price: </b>€ 17</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>What?: </b>Artsy Magazine with top quality photographs and Articles</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>+: </b>* A nice focus on art and the occasional collision with fashion</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* No obvious or easy subjects</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* Also a lot of architecture</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>-: </b>* Hard to find</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>For: </b>The Culturally Educated Fashion Victim</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Link: <a href="http://www.glassmagazine.co.uk/">Glass</a></b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8sdwg5XUIlJPd0Z59m9RPtlkrt-6Xi-OIWj-nGOLE9UP1gO0TQMbA5yBygNtaGXMTCGo44GmRDXEktEfKA4vhJ16nOsU7vzUrigq2XoiHHfNbHFbfdSrKh-rm_ohLk42P0MpzJdSA-QMq/s1600/Glass+Magazine_Issue+2_Cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8sdwg5XUIlJPd0Z59m9RPtlkrt-6Xi-OIWj-nGOLE9UP1gO0TQMbA5yBygNtaGXMTCGo44GmRDXEktEfKA4vhJ16nOsU7vzUrigq2XoiHHfNbHFbfdSrKh-rm_ohLk42P0MpzJdSA-QMq/s320/Glass+Magazine_Issue+2_Cover.jpg" width="225" /></a><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">So now that I've fed you some paper, hurry to the newsagent's! Let me know which one you prefer and which magazines I left out! </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">They say a mother shouldn't choose between her children, but though I love them all, I go all sorts of crazy when I get the new 'Vogue Collections', months after the publication I still keep it in my handbag... but let's keep that a secret..</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Have a good read!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span></div>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-64062979528492136262011-12-06T13:40:00.000+01:002011-12-06T13:42:10.683+01:00Comme de Goya<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The human mind is an inexhaustible source of images, such as photographs, paintings, volumes, colors,... At times you automatically tap into your personal archive of imagery. And sometimes there are these moments where everything comes together and you understand the meaning of an artwork, or at least the meaning you personally ascribe to it. When I saw the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Comme des Garcons spring/summer 2012</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"> collection, that very thing happened to me. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">In my opinion Rei Kawakubo struck gold with this collection that consisted of all white silhouettes. The theme was 'the drama of life' and the use of fabrics referred to both birth and baptism (lace) and marriage (duchesse satin). As in life, death also took its share of the collection with dresses that looked like winding sheets and textures that reminded me of funerary decorations. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_hrxIVWgKW1SZjwebzJKMJ2N3ml9Rg5NtKzadf-4fThB-sYCe4pJsYUjUwDUKvSAV1noGKwpH2V1kHQxfyqYebfsB60LuFAOuo_jEu-hODZW94bycrydHivZdoEfKl2qLMqsqg6jNo-fT/s1600/00320m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_hrxIVWgKW1SZjwebzJKMJ2N3ml9Rg5NtKzadf-4fThB-sYCe4pJsYUjUwDUKvSAV1noGKwpH2V1kHQxfyqYebfsB60LuFAOuo_jEu-hODZW94bycrydHivZdoEfKl2qLMqsqg6jNo-fT/s640/00320m.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Comme des Garcons, Spring/Summer 2012 </td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Looking at the silhouettes that covered the heads of the models, a</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"> work of Japanese artist Yasumasa Morimura of 2004 immediately sprung to mind</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yasumasa Morimura, 'Look this is in fashion' 2004</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Yasumasa Morimura (°1951) is an artist who 'appropriates' art of others. This means that he doesn't copy an artwork but takes it and makes it his own. His most famous work consists of photographs based on famous paintings by the hand of Van Gogh, Velazquez, Manet and the likes. The artist himself appears in each of these photographs.</span><br />
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Yasumasa Morimura, Daughter of Art History (Velasquez), 1990</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yasumasa Morimura, Portrait (Van Gogh), 1985</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1n-9fcxSvwXNqkW8KJ9yOPQOrvwDK8vEnWw4594zGSiWFKyW5SI3VtU1s5BOAEYAJoK0zEv8qvIP44-6gsbiruY7FhcmfR87umuxsG_6VnsEbOBjQQAIyV0DvFoCSoq7y0EZq4BY_0Q4_/s1600/Moriwasa-Portrait-Futago.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1n-9fcxSvwXNqkW8KJ9yOPQOrvwDK8vEnWw4594zGSiWFKyW5SI3VtU1s5BOAEYAJoK0zEv8qvIP44-6gsbiruY7FhcmfR87umuxsG_6VnsEbOBjQQAIyV0DvFoCSoq7y0EZq4BY_0Q4_/s320/Moriwasa-Portrait-Futago.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yasumasa Morimura, Portrait (Manet), 1988</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The photograph with the girls in the white dresses is based on an eighteenth century aquatint print of painter Francisco de Goya (1746-1828). </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Francisco de Goya, Ya tienen asciento (They're already seated), from 'Los Caprichos' n° 26, 1799</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">This aquatint is part of a collection of 80 pictures named 'Los Caprichos', which Goya meant as a satire of the eighteenth century Spanish society.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Francisco de Goya, Todos Caeran (All will Fall), 1799</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Francisco de Goya, A Caza de Dientes (Hunting for Teeth), 1799</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">'Ya Tienen Asciento' shows two girls holding a chair on their head. This is a wordplay on the Spanish saying that light headed girls that spend the day idly have nothing but a chair on their mind. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">It is striking that Yasumasa Morimura titled his photograph 'Look this is in fashion'. The artist ridicules the superficiality that is so in 'fashion' these days, but it could be that he also hackles the vanity and exuberance of modern day fashion. A couple of years later, almost exactly the same outfit is found on the catwalk in Paris in the show of Comme des Garcons. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Because of this notably similar dressshape I believe this to be a direct reference to the art of both Goya and Morimura. Kawakubo wishes to criticize our modern society by referring to these older artworks.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">or maybe the likeness is just a coincidence,</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">but we alchemists don't believe in coincidences, now do we?</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span></div>
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</div>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-67527831551730647852011-11-28T12:30:00.000+01:002011-11-28T12:31:51.940+01:00Pride Feels No Pain, Nor a Hobble Skirt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The first assignment for every second year student at the fashion academy is to accurately recreate a historical costume. We could choose any period up to the 1910's. A pity, I thought at first. You see, I've always had a weakness for the roaring 20's. I imagine it to be a time where women were liberated and acted out by throwing wild but distinguished parties and had an admirer on each arm (not to mention a closet full of exuberant hats and flapper dresses). </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Since it wasn't allowed to make a costume that originated from that time, I started to dig in to the decade that preceded it, the 1910's. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I found out that the seed of not only the women's emancipation but also the liberation of the female body form lies in these ten years.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The tightly corseted body made way for a straighter and more natural body form. Though corsets were in use during the whole decade, they became looser and allowed more movement as time progressed. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evolution of Corset shapes. 1910-1919.</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This evolution converged with the fight for women's vote by the suffragettes. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">T</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">he strange thing was, that while the ladies got more space to breathe (literally and figuratively), fashion constricted their legs in the form of the infamous 'hobble skirt'. The long skirt was so tight at the ankles, women could only take extremely small steps and would 'hobble' instead of walk. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Some people spoke of it as an outrage and a ridiculous vanity. A number of caricatures were manufactured, mocking the fashion, but with the underlying goal to ridicule the emancipation of women. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caricature 1914.</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">When you consult news articles of the time though, you can understand why there was a lot of criticism on the tight skirt. A lot of accidents happened, some were even fatal.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLz0qOSYg7TGvk2JlMssNtrq6kU_RyGY4AuswczwpKl0QamaI27kEDVRcbNwinK-U5twimT5JuRpR_Yc92WzUM6pdi4Uo15I6ooXwsBvheuuRrnYIXl-01VJJQ-namWDDtBE77uoALnDb/s1600/hobbledeath.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="473" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLz0qOSYg7TGvk2JlMssNtrq6kU_RyGY4AuswczwpKl0QamaI27kEDVRcbNwinK-U5twimT5JuRpR_Yc92WzUM6pdi4Uo15I6ooXwsBvheuuRrnYIXl-01VJJQ-namWDDtBE77uoALnDb/s640/hobbledeath.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Published in The New York Times on August 31st 1911.</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In some cities, around 1912, trams and trolleys were even lowered to avoid any more accidents with women tripping over their skirts. The fashion didn't last very long though, and around 1915 the skirts became a lot fuller. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Recently there were a few designers who took inspiration from this particular skirt shape. The amazing Nicola Formichetti featured the hobble skirt during his Mugler womenswear debut for the collection fall/winter 2011. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3DxqofP0ihHveM82KsR3aGsJRvZYlTOwN03LDNbThR-CmJvhnhwMFw4POyUd94klx_MiAu_r8R1QiK7HM_qrxwCvZ38ZKtLcc4iqWitG4v2R-x39GtznWOW16C4TXZtzX7tEPeGcuBnRO/s1600/mugler+fall+2011+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3DxqofP0ihHveM82KsR3aGsJRvZYlTOwN03LDNbThR-CmJvhnhwMFw4POyUd94klx_MiAu_r8R1QiK7HM_qrxwCvZ38ZKtLcc4iqWitG4v2R-x39GtznWOW16C4TXZtzX7tEPeGcuBnRO/s320/mugler+fall+2011+2.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fall/Winter 2011 Mugler.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiItGiAvLCekueVSNRnIoqY2YOiRzqBdY6z0tNlWQnGE4qtL1F4BEh9nkkoR0vNo7TXdOf3JqFj5Pcpls0tYXuzSO0tkxAxXA22yElQaLm48rMCOnZp0OyiDSQC4oIRYUfZK5hdQqSxKb_6/s1600/mugler+fall+2011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiItGiAvLCekueVSNRnIoqY2YOiRzqBdY6z0tNlWQnGE4qtL1F4BEh9nkkoR0vNo7TXdOf3JqFj5Pcpls0tYXuzSO0tkxAxXA22yElQaLm48rMCOnZp0OyiDSQC4oIRYUfZK5hdQqSxKb_6/s320/mugler+fall+2011.jpg" width="212" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Fall/Winter 2011 Mugler.</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Ralph Lauren showed us a more romantic spin on the skirt in his fall/winter collection of the same year. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmUBkoeYixn-TzZwJvUPszW1_7RzlrESMhlZ8KniKErr4Ga4EZLXQvyxNqR2QWFbgN3J4tTXII2kPJBOC9wOk7xrbaIsi1dLKGkIEa7nY_PqTqJYKMk9oK-PIEuOgaUG28QBSnN3glsDD/s1600/ralph+lauren+fall+2011+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmUBkoeYixn-TzZwJvUPszW1_7RzlrESMhlZ8KniKErr4Ga4EZLXQvyxNqR2QWFbgN3J4tTXII2kPJBOC9wOk7xrbaIsi1dLKGkIEa7nY_PqTqJYKMk9oK-PIEuOgaUG28QBSnN3glsDD/s320/ralph+lauren+fall+2011+5.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fall/Winter 2011 Raplh Lauren</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigPPDAB36okNRgsfppLCnX2f-0cLNWikdXSXuxMszazNQtRCmBwQsYYtzhoFaG6d8l1qkjDU4l_gPv6g9UNcjFkGJ5fOcxdgVngSU7ju9vAoZvqJPrUbf6p0yUyJdZ2ac9BYRSFpADaKul/s1600/ralph+lauren+fall+2011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigPPDAB36okNRgsfppLCnX2f-0cLNWikdXSXuxMszazNQtRCmBwQsYYtzhoFaG6d8l1qkjDU4l_gPv6g9UNcjFkGJ5fOcxdgVngSU7ju9vAoZvqJPrUbf6p0yUyJdZ2ac9BYRSFpADaKul/s320/ralph+lauren+fall+2011.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fall/Winter 2011 Ralph Lauren.</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">But back to the production of my historical costume. I found a catalogue from the year 1914 and there I discovered this lovely dress.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsjnXNOWhb8tKe0d9KYX6zp6L9DVKjWQVNRvyBqjsAqgI1US1fnhytYR4sGKfbwW2cC9-U8MICpC_LsZPGA6NIQDFF84RCPPEREWofd_dPwJ1oIT_kouLgKJqL6BApJON54NGxN-CohKwc/s400/002.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="197" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Afternoon dress 1914</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWrgAuWcaoVh49RwC4y0Gfc3Pk2_plIL6RP4fbuLcc8QZvnkhmTUXOBIPipJGulO0EFNGmb4Q42qPGQr2CHJKyDMjouIZ2u8MsS-YXzj5nfSHoEwf3LhAEL0PDdzZW7I4Hc2Nd-Vjmw9Ya/s1600/003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWrgAuWcaoVh49RwC4y0Gfc3Pk2_plIL6RP4fbuLcc8QZvnkhmTUXOBIPipJGulO0EFNGmb4Q42qPGQr2CHJKyDMjouIZ2u8MsS-YXzj5nfSHoEwf3LhAEL0PDdzZW7I4Hc2Nd-Vjmw9Ya/s320/003.jpg" width="141" /></a><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It consists of a hobble skirt in silk, a chiffon dress and a silk waistcoat. Apart from that there's the underwear, shoes and jewelry. On a trip to Cincinnati I found the most gorgeous early 20th century boots to go with my costume. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDbqIlfkWfRW3e-CSz2EZ9n5xkMcQy42c4_zV98MBADHrSRKywjMOwvfEWehwqZIVIM6hlA6yYtmEGDsbv3BdAdxOiXBRrtcSU8bGvMf5TbTGUxhsGYP9GnWCrMNn1H0f9Dvwo-H6Ilv8U/s1600/DSC09461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDbqIlfkWfRW3e-CSz2EZ9n5xkMcQy42c4_zV98MBADHrSRKywjMOwvfEWehwqZIVIM6hlA6yYtmEGDsbv3BdAdxOiXBRrtcSU8bGvMf5TbTGUxhsGYP9GnWCrMNn1H0f9Dvwo-H6Ilv8U/s400/DSC09461.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> For the underwear I decided to make a corset and an cotton under dress. The corset was made with real antique metal boning and a metal busk at the front.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMPIyRRev2Y9msAolOZ7Om2ax1NcKErL3N60tce8tUkOi6jKv1sZVtyTWoPZ2BZYBx1B7dMD6v1YuzQ21iB9RoCgAD2iyUFLsj-qnkqDe518hbV0oJ5UqVnUnvft5pH9wWnI70sGCwzG4N/s1600/DSC09588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMPIyRRev2Y9msAolOZ7Om2ax1NcKErL3N60tce8tUkOi6jKv1sZVtyTWoPZ2BZYBx1B7dMD6v1YuzQ21iB9RoCgAD2iyUFLsj-qnkqDe518hbV0oJ5UqVnUnvft5pH9wWnI70sGCwzG4N/s320/DSC09588.JPG" width="112" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggiqvu-XscKnMrU_T5T7JJli1kgWyfrJdFvBPKLoxDya2wV-5iEuGG39GT1e02SnleOAZv0p4JRhNdLYcLC697ZCposPARyGc_ybR99lHsO8NulVHSgBeouRYqH-tK2wicNEMYcpJduXfB/s1600/DSC09595.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggiqvu-XscKnMrU_T5T7JJli1kgWyfrJdFvBPKLoxDya2wV-5iEuGG39GT1e02SnleOAZv0p4JRhNdLYcLC697ZCposPARyGc_ybR99lHsO8NulVHSgBeouRYqH-tK2wicNEMYcpJduXfB/s320/DSC09595.JPG" width="186" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">After making all the patterns for the dress, skirt and waistcoat, I had to stain my silk with coffee, to get a bit of a 'used' feel. Those were some scary moments when I dipped 80 euros worth of silk in a bath filled with cold coffee. I also did some decorating on the dress and sash in the back with ordinary acrylic paint. This is the final result.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-0eM6U3xoI58eDtZw3b_M1tcUg1DnKtOtRdfJeiuU8M-gig1BOPQXfyOa_P6FP0QnvSezrkHFdL93Z_-ZXmB4Lhs-Kv1CNwIRGBhtZQnZIGa0PpQDnA5sjxq1u80OLeFtbDqPneCQzRS/s1600/DSC09617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-0eM6U3xoI58eDtZw3b_M1tcUg1DnKtOtRdfJeiuU8M-gig1BOPQXfyOa_P6FP0QnvSezrkHFdL93Z_-ZXmB4Lhs-Kv1CNwIRGBhtZQnZIGa0PpQDnA5sjxq1u80OLeFtbDqPneCQzRS/s640/DSC09617.JPG" width="268" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS26bubrYBFvdbk4b-roceebJtKbNaCSGdaXEVw6PdxdYcYyBdjXM85YCZqziVC35vmU18yhbdWm-DiJu2b9Rdg-TWl9THmugBHngFwW7i0vMcy1NF3gS9UoPsHfbgL3i_MXFry-4mKss5/s1600/2011-10-29-02-sint-niklaas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS26bubrYBFvdbk4b-roceebJtKbNaCSGdaXEVw6PdxdYcYyBdjXM85YCZqziVC35vmU18yhbdWm-DiJu2b9Rdg-TWl9THmugBHngFwW7i0vMcy1NF3gS9UoPsHfbgL3i_MXFry-4mKss5/s640/2011-10-29-02-sint-niklaas.jpg" width="196" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Right now, I'm working on my collection that will consist of four silhouettes. So: More to come!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Until then, dress in hobble skirts but watch your step!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span><br />
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<br />fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-76787447100127152022011-11-22T00:36:00.000+01:002011-11-24T22:04:41.629+01:00An Interesting Body Part<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">"Are we having the time of our life?"</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The answer that night at the Antwerp Lotto Arena </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">was gradually formulated louder and more clear </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">as the question was repeated over and over again by Guy Garvey, lead singer of the British band Elbow.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">YES, we are.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">At that moment it did feel like it. Standing in a crowd, you feel one with everybody there. All the differences dissolve until you're all just one giant heap of flesh waving its 12.000 arms and singing at the top of the same amount of lungs. And that beast enjoys the music with every pore. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">And no matter how many times you've experienced this, you truly realise: </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I will never re-live this moment. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">With the release of their latest album 'Build A Rocket Boys!', Elbow has affirmed their place among the great British musicians of their time. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The band has been around for over fourteen years. Not seldom the first few albums of a band represent the height of their originality and authenticity. With Elbow however, I think that, apart from their debut album</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> 'Asleep in the back', this one is one of their best yet.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> 'Build A Rocket Boys!' has a fluency and natural quality that makes me think that maybe Elbow is reaching their mature sound. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Seeing the band live is well worth it. Their grandstand performance and high sing-along level lend them an American allure and makes for a spectacular concert. In other words, they do know how to put on a show. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The screens that adorned the setting were adjusted to match the different songs and change accordingly. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The string quartet accompanying the band throughout most of the performance contributed to the high sound quality. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">When they started the contagious ballad 'Mirrorball' a genuine mirrorball was lowered from the stage to immerse the concerthall in a flickering light. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Mirrorball @ Lotto Arena Antwerpen, 6 november. Footage :Uschi Cop </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">One of the heights of the evening was Garvey's short improvisation session and 'Grounds for Divorce' that followed after.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Grounds for Divorce @ Lotto Arena Antwerpen, 6 november. Footage :Uschi Cop </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In contrast to all this spectacle, there was an intimate interlude in the form of an acoustic set that contained songs like 'The night will always win', 'The River' and 'Some Riot'. For me this was the most magical part of the concert.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The Night Will Always Win @ Lotto Arena Antwerpen, 6 november. Footage :Uschi Cop </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I leave you with my best remembrance of the set list. A lot of songs from their last two albums, too little of their earlier work. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">The Birds (Build a Rocket Boys! 2011)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">The Bones of you (The Seldom Seen Kid 2008)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Mirrorball </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(The Seldom Seen Kid 2008)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Neat little rows </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(Build a Rocket Boys! 2011)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Grounds for divorce </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(The Seldom Seen Kid 2008)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The loneliness of a tower crane driver </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(The Seldom Seen Kid 2008)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">The night will always win </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(Build a Rocket Boys! 2011)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">The River </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(Build a Rocket Boys! 2011) </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Some Riot </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(The Seldom Seen Kid 2008)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Dear Friends </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">(Build a Rocket Boys! 2011) </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Lippy Kids </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(Build a Rocket Boys! 2011)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Weather to Fly </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(The Seldom Seen Kid 2008)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Open Arms </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">(Build a Rocket Boys! 2011) </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Encores: </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">One Day like this </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(The Seldom Seen Kid 2008)</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span><br />
<br />fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-48805405625102004112011-11-16T23:14:00.000+01:002011-11-20T22:49:09.067+01:00Dial H C for Fashion<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">When talking about fashion, the question I probably get asked the most is who my favorite designer is. That's probably because I often ramble on about the reasons why I love fashion, somehow names don't come up that easy. However, I do have an ultimate favorite: Hussein Chalayan. Don't bother trying to pronounce it right, in the world of fashion they understand who you're talking about when you utter a hesitant 'Hoessijn Galajan', believe me, I should know. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">You're talking about a designer who manages to bring together art and fashion in amazing creations. Perhaps the most remarkable thing about Chalayan is, that he succeeds in commercializing his avant-garde collections.</span></div>
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H<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">ussein Chalayan was born in 1970. Allthough his roots lie in the Turkish part of Nicosia, Cyprus, he moved with his parents to England in 1978. There, he studied at the famous Central Saint Martins in London. His graduate collection consisted of clothes he had buried in his yard and dug up again. This subversive action would proof to be characteristic of his vision on</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> fashion.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">One of his best fashion collections, in my opinion, was the spring-summer 2001, where the show took a surprising turn during the final when the models began smashing the glass dresses of their colleagues. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Or how a fashion show can transform into a conceptual art </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">performance in a matter of seconds.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Ebi323-0E5TG7zMddT20iU_3ViMaLsFFfV3a8e2-zH2OiG0whEFltaSJtVhY4zqmxtnKsI5OeORwODw1xbLRRK4uaVQBebsVJuc02pO4UUO6eWUk28kZIUtnDcnJyeynBAUAP7XYo6K1/s1600/HC_SS01_007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Ebi323-0E5TG7zMddT20iU_3ViMaLsFFfV3a8e2-zH2OiG0whEFltaSJtVhY4zqmxtnKsI5OeORwODw1xbLRRK4uaVQBebsVJuc02pO4UUO6eWUk28kZIUtnDcnJyeynBAUAP7XYo6K1/s400/HC_SS01_007.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5zRYFNC42IqCzAXC2iV4jMTUIS9dgKA8orCluO8ogoQ2hJZsoO32FDDH1VEwbFvWQF45JMoWKotI7mLqKCoIhKtlDqCv3NAWbyiK4o0ScUXEDAhAJovKf5tf_sdscVlouwq83wfXwJUM7/s1600/HC_SS01_008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5zRYFNC42IqCzAXC2iV4jMTUIS9dgKA8orCluO8ogoQ2hJZsoO32FDDH1VEwbFvWQF45JMoWKotI7mLqKCoIhKtlDqCv3NAWbyiK4o0ScUXEDAhAJovKf5tf_sdscVlouwq83wfXwJUM7/s400/HC_SS01_008.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hussein Chalayan. Spring Summer 2001</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">His most recent exploit was the presentation of his spring-summer 2012 collection at the Paris Fashion week. As in some of his earlier shows he himself took part of the spectacle. This time as a waiter serving the models champagne. With these types of cameo appearances, he is starting to earn his name as the Hitchcock of fashion. This great cineaste appeared in 39 of his 52 surviving films. Just as Hitchcock, Chalayans personality is an important part of his work.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hussein Chalayan. Spring Summer 2011</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdSG0nX3k7omPLwoHE18rI6A71Xq1omBTC3zkW61eSuB00gw8BF5rWzTCdLG_8f9vEiML7VQE91dwuwyfKSbxeVx2y5RNMISVMyXUpBNoa9HP5kP24QREDEo0Srn5UnH4wn0mdNNFmBLX/s1600/00530m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdSG0nX3k7omPLwoHE18rI6A71Xq1omBTC3zkW61eSuB00gw8BF5rWzTCdLG_8f9vEiML7VQE91dwuwyfKSbxeVx2y5RNMISVMyXUpBNoa9HP5kP24QREDEo0Srn5UnH4wn0mdNNFmBLX/s320/00530m.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hussein Chalayan. Spring Summer 2011</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Chalayans importance has been underrated for a long time. Currently the artist is being honored by a retrospective of his work in Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris. Deservingly so. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Regrettably I've not been able to go myself. But for the lucky ones who have planned a visit to La douce France, the exposition will run till December 11th of 2011.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I wish you a lot of creating, learning and living,</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.husseinchalayan.com/#/home/">http://www.husseinchalayan.com</a><br />
<a href="http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/">http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr</a>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-59953479880148658552011-11-12T12:59:00.000+01:002011-11-20T22:49:37.454+01:00Purposeful Shoe Fetishism<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The overwhelming joy of
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The clean sole,
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The vague pain that
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The smell of unused
leather</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Yes, I am talking about
new shoes.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">This incomparable
feeling gets a golden glow when the footwear in question comes with a birth
certificate. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Designer shoes. The word
alone excites me.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Don't get me wrong,
(regretfully) I am not the kind of girl that fills her shoe rack with
Louboutins, Choos, Ferragamos and the like. I won't fool myself, the most
important reason for this is my budget. I work three days a week to be able to
pay my rent and school supplies. That's why I usually appease my cravings with
second hand finds and nice enough middle segment shoes. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Not this time.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Spotted: The nicest
heels I'd ever seen. Perfect height, the heel in a beautiful sand color that
contrasts with the pale suede used on the body of that magnificent object.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hz7ipMrvmUxaEAOZ8t4pdywyv-JVVa7HAVxSRAbnRrRnGaqEFdfpE1ntnUUGGw37zWc-ChyphenhyphenTNk4dQfgKgLIjKaZoO0mugyuF8TJ3VWHQIBkEFa4DbJAHhD4m_fPughttC6CWJbwL70k0/s1600/DSC09606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hz7ipMrvmUxaEAOZ8t4pdywyv-JVVa7HAVxSRAbnRrRnGaqEFdfpE1ntnUUGGw37zWc-ChyphenhyphenTNk4dQfgKgLIjKaZoO0mugyuF8TJ3VWHQIBkEFa4DbJAHhD4m_fPughttC6CWJbwL70k0/s400/DSC09606.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Price tag: Also
magnificent. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Guilty
suspect: Fred de la Bretonière, a Dutch footwear designer who's been in the
trade for over forty years. He began his company as a sole proprietor in
Amsterdam in 1970. He's known for his craftsmanship, love for natural materials and knowledge of
traditional techniques. Last year he even received an award from the Italian
National Consort Santi Crispino e Crispiano.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The pair I had my eyes
on was one from the 'Goldies collection'. These are less traditional in design
than most of his other shoes and have a futuresque vintage feel about
them.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The heel seems to be
inserted and reminded me of the soviet constructivism of the 1920's and the futurism
of the decade before that.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC8xIri8db9lEJ03fMwRoYvm7MLNuj7qXbo7ZytlZuapcYegp9_56GfG9MwQD5gNma8Fjinky3UWIAUtnwECmioabJw0sLYlnGfufAMO3bmT-It5W0EMEdMoA4mlA_Uo7IZwqYYB-IgzkV/s1600/studio_per_centrale_elettrica_1914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC8xIri8db9lEJ03fMwRoYvm7MLNuj7qXbo7ZytlZuapcYegp9_56GfG9MwQD5gNma8Fjinky3UWIAUtnwECmioabJw0sLYlnGfufAMO3bmT-It5W0EMEdMoA4mlA_Uo7IZwqYYB-IgzkV/s320/studio_per_centrale_elettrica_1914.jpg" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">Study after Antonio Sant'Elia</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwCGC7lMSONXYDpoeg062s8dw3SpdjcMnmlthDm7worBMaPehRTbQQ0erEYkCLkJBMJrXAfHc1nqGd4YyES-CoWtW8dUEB4MuTVbNOutrSE-bVGsC7Cl4ri7zFwsHyFn92EQmmz27kmm2A/s1600/El+Lissitzky+%2527Proun%2527+1922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwCGC7lMSONXYDpoeg062s8dw3SpdjcMnmlthDm7worBMaPehRTbQQ0erEYkCLkJBMJrXAfHc1nqGd4YyES-CoWtW8dUEB4MuTVbNOutrSE-bVGsC7Cl4ri7zFwsHyFn92EQmmz27kmm2A/s320/El+Lissitzky+%2527Proun%2527+1922.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Lissitzki, Proun, 1922</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">I love the way the soft
volume almost gets cut by the geometrical form which still stands on its
own. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">So, because they were
culturally substantiated and to support our northern neighbors I was forced to
add them to my personal collection. Luckily I had a secret American Santa that
helped me carry the financial burden. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Till next time, I wish you all happy shoe hunting, whether it's with a heap of patience or a load of cash.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL0zDAzR0MHC9mSBIuVjilgIRjyDCeb3O6WJQkE8e94v7sIBb2uWsQVNQffq5G_8Z15pVPtUW7_PPFpYhSJgTG4eDl9gH_IjyBSJ9xtm4ZOXNVX1t5_51jwDmL9YeaVowDPQNHGdddDfYT/s1600/8.jpg"><span style="color: blue; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 13.5pt; text-decoration: none;"></span></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ9_z43Vpdz6JvR4v7q1CfSdaTnkKIdQ7PLCwDY7UguVD9VPwVWXH7f00WkqgowwClXSPkFtehRpgZ2My66j1iy-SrfbqdEZy91jRYVX83aEhD5c5is5h7Lj8lX1FqpgI-f9YxqCIyhWXl/s1600/8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ9_z43Vpdz6JvR4v7q1CfSdaTnkKIdQ7PLCwDY7UguVD9VPwVWXH7f00WkqgowwClXSPkFtehRpgZ2My66j1iy-SrfbqdEZy91jRYVX83aEhD5c5is5h7Lj8lX1FqpgI-f9YxqCIyhWXl/s200/8.jpg" width="168" /></a></div>
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</div>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3778936122929290086.post-75704496122860364422011-11-08T22:02:00.000+01:002011-11-20T13:14:39.895+01:00The Origin Of My Goldseeking<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This is my answer to my life and world, that provide me with orders, opinions, facts and theories, that are often obsolete, sometimes valuable, but never my own.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">When I was growing up, I thought I could be anyone, anything. I was a walking cliché: girl wants to be princess, dressed in pink and more than able to make her own decisions. Those decisions remained in the realm of choosing my own clothes and playthings. In typical Belgium autumn weather (aka pouring rain) I would insist on wearing my pink plastic sandals. Twenty years later.. not much has changed.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I still want things to go my way, do things on my own. Although the princess-complex now appears in the form of high heeled shoes that I refuse to leave the house without (although very unpractical) and endless dreaming of what possibilities lie ahead...and behind.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">That dreaming has led me down the path of pursuing a passion...a passion that many people share with me.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I'm guilty of a passion for all pretty things. There I said it, flat out. I could say that an animated conversation on Belgian politics or studying science makes my heart beat faster, but eventually the truth will come out. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">As probably many of you, I find the ultimate satisfaction when I perceive something aesthetically pleasing, whether it be a perfectly constructed dress, food, a piece of artwork or a musical composition. I could go on and write a philosophical piece on Kant and the difference he discerned between real beauty and pleasing aesthetics, but as already stated: that is not where my purpose lies.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Why a blog then? I want to share with you, what I believe to be the most beautiful cultural expressions that cross my path. Along the way I have the humble aspiration that the designers, artists, musicians I bring to this tiny address on the world wide web, will amuse, intrigue and inspire you, but above all, add some more 'prettiness' to the lives of my beautiful friends.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">For now I leave you with this promise,</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Mere Alchemist</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzv_OIwBZQAJhaO_7rlGdaC9uC7laD6GJCpyNp0QB9W5-DiGJen3dkwA0htvLbVg5VS1WeIoa0impEmrVIht7ZT4Q7sPmtT79SO2NFQInxLPizEDHIkeadjJwFabcTJBGXXKTuG-0eiyQy/s1600/self2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzv_OIwBZQAJhaO_7rlGdaC9uC7laD6GJCpyNp0QB9W5-DiGJen3dkwA0htvLbVg5VS1WeIoa0impEmrVIht7ZT4Q7sPmtT79SO2NFQInxLPizEDHIkeadjJwFabcTJBGXXKTuG-0eiyQy/s200/self2.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></div>
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</div>fashionliberationfrontbelgiumhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01788546679236578971noreply@blogger.com5